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Psycho Man 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: BBn SKT 97
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall
Page Views: 511
Submitted By: brian benedon on Nov 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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crack climbing?

Restrictions January 1 - April 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Psycho Man is the wide crack in the left facing Dihedral capped by the giant roof. Visible from the trail 2.75 miles in.

Protection 

P1 7 draws, 0 TCU-#3 Camalot.
P2-single run of cams and 3 or 4 #4 Camalots.
We originally climbed it with a rack of doubles, but 3 or 4 #4 Camalots are nice to have.


Photos of Psycho Man Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2
Pitch 2
starting P2
starting P2
1st P crux
1st P crux

Comments on Psycho Man Add Comment
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By greg k
Nov 11, 2013

only sampled the 1st pitch so far and it was excellent. look forward to getting on the crack above. thanks again brian & friends: you guys found and established some real gems
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 12, 2013

Thing looks burly, *yikes* I'd err on the side of 4 #4s.

Fine job establishing all these great routes guys!
By brian benedon
Nov 13, 2013

thank you, had a great time
Psycho Man
Psycho Man


Eric and I Psycho P 2
Eric and I Psycho P 2
By Dan W.
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 4, 2014

I only used a few small pieces on the first pitch to mix in with the bolts. The belay uses one monster bolt and a number 2 or 3 C4. I only used two BD #4's on the second pitch, although tricky there is plenty of opportunity for smaller gear. It was still a little loose and dirty but i thought it was fantastic! Make sure the leader has a camera to take a picture of the follower on the 2 2nd pitch, for what is an amazing photogenic opportunity! The second rap anchors are straight down from the top but somewhat hidden by a small roof. Thanks Brian for sharing this and for all the hard work!