Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anarchist , The S 
Blinded By The Puss T,S 
Bloody Beetroots, The S 
Captain Moonlite T,S 
Clark Bar Crack T 
Cold Vein , The S 
Dyno Problem TR 
Exposed TR 
Fear The Wolf T 
Food Pyramid T,TR 
Forearm Frenzy T 
Half crack TR 
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 
Its Own Spirit T,S 
Jungle Face T,TR 
Kilometer Variation 
Kyles Corner T,TR 
Magic Central S 
Marmalade T,TR 
Modern Collective T,S 
Mudskipper, The T,TR 
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 
P&H T 
Pisces T,TR 
Psycho Jap S 
Shape Shifter S 
Silver Wings S 
Sirius T,TR 
Sleep Walker ArÍte, The S,TR 
Spider T,TR 
Summer 
Super Slab T,TR 
Super Vivid 
TRad Crack T,TR 
Twilight Singer T 
Wallow In The Hollow  T 
We Don't Toprope T 
Zeitgeist T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Psycho Jap 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: TR: Bill Lutkis. FFA: Shylo
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall
Page Views: 966
Submitted By: Echoinfi on Sep 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
John on Psycho Jap

Description 

Start by soloing up the obvious easy corner in the middle of the "Psycho Jap" wall. Stick clip the first bolt and boulder on to the start under the low roof to reach a huge jug. The initial start is much harder if you are short. From the huge jug just over the low roof launch into a finger intensive boulder problem into big holds again. From the big holds in the middle go to the last bolt. From here either go right and top out on jugs and walk around to the anchor (easy) or launch left and commit to a difficult topout boulder problem right near the anchor. Don't worry your protection is at or just below your feet and the fall is safe.

Video:


Location 

This climb goes up the center of the psycho jap wall to climbers left of the Z-crack. It was horribly sandy, dirty, and neglected. Now it has been cleaned, rediscovered, and climbed more frequently to be enjoyed again.

Protection 

Glue-ins


Photos of Psycho Jap Slideshow Add Photo
Center line.
BETA PHOTO: Center line.

Comments on Psycho Jap Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Biehn
From: Madison, CT
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Top out to the left is pumpy and technical... top out to the right has lots of lichen on it but seems easier?... Its easiest If you put long draws on the anchor... Fun climb! Pumpy up high!
By GymRat
May 18, 2012

Anchor has chains now.
By Zane Dordai
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

got on this thing today...the top sloper was baking in the sun and I clipped the chains, went for it....and slid off pretty much instantly even despite chalking before it. I'm taking the send so I can feel better about myself, but that direct topout feels downright impossible in 70 degrees and sun; the sloper just bakes and its a pretty crummy hold as well. I could have topped out to the right on seemingly better holds as well. Regardless if this thing was 20ft longer it would compare with classics in world class areas. Thanks so much to the developers, this crag is sweet! Can't wait to get back!