Psycho Hose Beast
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Heading toward the crux on Psycho Hose Beast.
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A nice little line on the L third of the Wall of the Nineties. Just right of Punishment for Shoplifting
(PFS). It feels less difficult than PFS once you know where the holds are. Interesting rest ledge below the top/crux. 5.11a/b is the given rating from Mark's guide and, for Clear Creek, it feels right if you try to onsight. Probably 5.9 for those Eldo-wizards. I wonder why the name....
Ignore this info if you want an onsight flash:
Funky move between bolts 1 & 2. Decent upper face moves. Rest ledge reminiscent of the rest in that video (Masters of Stone?) of Piana on a climb at Hueco. Weird crux at 10th bolt. Such a good rest but a bit awkward to move past. Hard to see from below the overhang. To get out and beyond the roof, reach up for a left side pinch, get feet up, then long reach to a flat edge. Trust it....
10 QDs + slings for the anchors.
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 28, 2008
I stayed away from this for sometime because of the lack of guidebook and partner recommendations. I finally caved in yesterday and gave it a shot. This climb was much better than I anticipated with brilliant moves throughout the entire second half of the climb. The roof crux is just awesome. It's intimidating getting out from below the overhang, but the holds are there. Although The Reward is my favorite this is just as good as the other climbs on the righthand side of The Monkey House.