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Psycho Friends 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA Chris Hahn, EB Jim Steagall
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 12, 2010

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last few underclings before the anchors

Description 

This burly crack climb might feel difficult for the grade if you only face climb. Head up the right facing dihedral with a combination of jams and liebacks. At the corner some good footholds provide a nice rest before the crux traverse under the roof. Extending the draws under the roof will make the final moves easier. Probably best to TR this one to clean it.

"Psycho Friend Network" continuous across the roof to the anchors for Guilty Pleasures for 12b credit, have fun cleaning this one.

Location 

In the center of Main Wall. Look for the right facing right leaning dihedral, capped by a large roof.

Protection 

9 Bolts to Anchors. For rope drag consider backcleaning the first bolt and extend the 3 bolts under the roof with long slings. A short draw on the last bolt keeps the rope from rubbing on the sharp corner of the roof.


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