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Psycho Wall
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Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 

Psycho Crack Right 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,265
Submitted By: Taino on Jan 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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BETA PHOTO: Right

Description 

Possibly the best 5.8 in Peterskill; it has a little of everything - arete climbing, face climbing, off-width crack, and slightly-overhanging jug-bashing. It's also the only route in Peterskill to have bolts off which you can rappel.


Location 

Start right of the open book on small arch in face; follow to off-width, and continue to top. FWIW, I tend to start on the arete of the open book, end up on the face at the base of the offwidth, and traverse slightly into the offwidth; different strokes, etc.


Protection 

More than adequate, although perhaps not as much as a person might like. Bolted TR/rappel anchor. Easy walk-off.



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Crux move for me.
Crux move for me.
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By Tabo
Aug 31, 2009

This is one of those routes where I almost got hit by a rope while on lead. Since it's overhanging, a quick look from above and they might not see you. Leave your packs back from the cliff so anyone looking over can see there's someone down there.

By kenr
Oct 9, 2012

Seemed straightforward to just start in the open book - (trying to follow the description above, I didn't see the "arch" out to the side).

Crux seemed squirmy: the off-width as advertised -- and more than just squirmy, had some moves I had to think about -- so I guess I'd call it "interesting off-width". Otherwise lots of fun face climbing.

By jdrago
From: Rosendale, NY
May 19, 2013

this climb just about has it all. wish there was a second pitch.