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Psychic Turbulance 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Skinner, Daniel Rosen, Beth Wald '84
Page Views: 1,110
Submitted By: m.b. on Sep 4, 2002

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A 5 Star Beauty...The route that is !!! Psycho Tur...
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located 100 or so feet left of Carol's Crack on the north end of the west face. Felt like El Matador's big brother: technical stemming on lichen with no rests unless you have Lance Armstrong's calves.


Protection 

2 sets of RPs and small and medium nuts with Friends up to #1.5



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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2004

Stongly consider double ropes for this route or take 10 to 12 over-the-shoulder-length slings as the protection is on two separate crack lines. Another understated Tower classic.

By Neil Kauffman
May 29, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Simply amazing! Some of the craziest stemming I've ever encountered! Fun TR, would be a demanding lead!

By slim
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

agreed, i remember the calf-pump almost blowing my eardrums out. awesome route.

By will smith
From: boulder
Sep 11, 2013

A route that is true to it's name. Double ropes for sure. You'll feel worked when you are done.

By Wally
From: Denver
Feb 12, 2014

Has anyone done this route in recent years? I had the fortune to get this really tough line many years ago. I spoke with the stud climbing ranger a couple of years ago - he said Psychic Turbulence needed some gardening work, and hadn't been climbed in years.

True?

By slim
Administrator
Feb 12, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

i did it memorial day weekend 2003 (not too recently). it had some scruffiness then too. i think it just doesn't get done much, which is a pity, as it is a really good route.