Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This route starts on the ground just left of the classic C'est La Vie on Redgarden Wall, directly between The Contest (a bolted tweeky 11+ on the left) and Redguard in the right, which at ground level is a loose 5.8, but goes upward to become a neat route, despite it's seriousness. PsychGillLogical is a series of thin cracks and face holds wandering up the slightly open book dihedral between the two more well known climbs.
Personally, I think that PsychGillLogical is overgraded at 5.10b in the Eldo books and should probably be 5.9 in my opinion, or even easier if one escapes to the right at the crux moves. Descend by rapping from the anchors as for The Contest .
The route is worth doing only for those of you who have 10 spare minutes in the area or are trying to do as many routes as possible. I don't regret doing it, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone with limited opportunity to climb in the area.
The route requires a mixed bag of pro, and to protect it well, s little skill. The line itself is a little bit brittle, but one can step a few feet right to Redgaurd to help protect it better and return to the line with gear to the side.