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 ADVANCED
Motherlode Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Psychedelic Sluice 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 3,005
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Jun 28, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Psychedelic Sluice (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Description 

A fun, easy to protect crack that begins with the crux right off the ground. Getting up to the first gear placement may be a touch more difficult for those under 5'10"


Location 

You will find this crack between Black Bart and Shantytown Swing.


Protection 

Gear to 2" with a small nut or two for the thinner middle section. Bolted anchor shared with Shantytown Swing to the right.



Photos of Psychedelic Sluice Slideshow Add Photo
Psychedelic.
Psychedelic.
Indira looking for the next foothold to move up.
BETA PHOTO: Indira looking for the next foothold to move up.
Jason comfortably looking for a pro for his first placement.
BETA PHOTO: Jason comfortably looking for a pro for his first ...
Indira leading. Getting into a good position.
BETA PHOTO: Indira leading. Getting into a good position.
Al Sanderson cruisin' on his Psychadelic Psolo.
Al Sanderson cruisin' on his Psychadelic Psolo.
Great last climb of the day.
Great last climb of the day.
Jason moving up and looking for his 2nd placement which is just right above his head.
BETA PHOTO: Jason moving up and looking for his 2nd placement ...
Comments on Psychedelic Sluice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2008

A real nice hand crack that eats gear pretty well. Also a good TR when you already have the rope on Shantytown Swing.

By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 25, 2011

Certainly worth carrying your rack to the crag for. Would be a superb first trad lead with easy placements, good stances, secure movement, and a bolted anchor. Likes cams .5-2.5"

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 16, 2011

Indira lead and I followed. I find the initial start to get on the crack is the crux for me. I had to start from left side and then move over to the right. Great last climb of the day.

By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
May 1, 2012

Really fun route my 9 year old Daughter loved it. Would be a great first trad lead.

By MattMyers
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

High quality hand crack for its grade. It felt pretty soft for 5.6 trad, I highly recommend this climb.

By Kat S
From: Long Beach, CA
6 days ago

Great starter crack with killer foot jams.