Psyche Dike (Bradley Leblanc's unfinished variation)
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Ryan led the first pitch that was right on track and resembled only one guide book description for the beginning of King's variation to Concourse? Up the gray large left facing inside corner below the large gaping hole of the Conn Dike. Found were 70's vintage pitons. Easy climbing until (5.7) left of a large block. Up directly from there more (5.7) until belay station. Not an exactly secure looking belay on two large blocks sitting there on a ledge. Cannon okay belays. Loose stones were thrown off the cliff on lead. Hadn't been climbed vin a while. Protection was decent and far apart. I led the 2nd pitch. I started off right and up getting a good large friend first piece. Run out on crumble rock face small stopper decent #3 fixed). Traverse right and down (5.6) on crumble rock to a decent right facing inside corner. Left higher up on a traverse ledge was a bugaboo half-way in a crack. I'm dumb enough to get up on the traverse ledge. Lost? That decent right facing corner would be difficult through two ceilings later. (5.6) passing fractured wall that wasn't any good for pro left. 30lb. loose block. I picked it up and threw it left of Ryan. Dead end. Lost? Ryan suggested I go back towards the pin and climb down to another traverse ledge lower and I did. I got in two #1 stoppers down and left several ft. from the pin. More loose stones left until the traverse ended. What a position I was in. Believe in the stoppers. They were going to fail and the pin would snap off, sending me down onto the good pro of the corner. I would stop near Ryan's belay. Broken ankles if I remained upright and in worst shape if I got flipped upside down (no helmet). Awkward step down left to a small sloping foot hold. I got it made the step down. Now way out from pro foot sticking to the slope. Very small sloping hand holds. lift right foot up to a vertical push off edge (5.8+). Ryan later said I bascically did a controlled jump off from this foot edge to get my left foot high up onto a decent ledge below a large detached block below a right facing inside corner. The block gave me some feeling of security and I said out loud, "I didn't have a heart attack". Gear in block at the top of it made a horn (5.6). Needed a nut pick to clean out a stopper crack above the horn. Stuck, retreated to the top of Concourse's first pitch. From there we joined up with Mopy Grape (our goal). After consuming much of our time doing these two pitches, we got below the crux pitch of Moby's. From there I got lowered down a left facing chimney created by a giant block to retrieve gear. Yosemite Valley like rock for 20ft with excellent pro (not described in King's variation) at the block. This could pitch with some decent pro from Concourse to the top of below the crux pitch would be different on high quality rock
The first pitch of whatever we climbed, we believing was Psyche Dike. It is cleaned out of loose stones and has some excellent moves on it also.
Directly below the Conn Dike.
Standard Cannon rack. I'd stay off of it until I improve the protection. It should be led with 2 ropes I would have continued up the corner but the rope drag was so great I couldn't go ahead.
|Comments on Psyche Dike (Bradley Leblanc's unfinished variation)
|By bradley white|
From: Rumney, N.H.
Dec 13, 2012
Now that Mike Z. has done it, I guess he kept it at being unfinished?