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French's Dome
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Psoriasis 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Phillip Hranicka (Bolted by Dave Sowerby)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,032
Submitted By: phillip on Jul 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A true power-endurance route, Psoriasis lacks the huge "thank god" jugs that appear on other French's Dome routes. After clipping the third bolt, the business begins and you'll have to get your shakes/rests wherever you can find them! While the crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts, the route remains pumpy to the anchor.

This route has been extensively cleaned, but the friable nature of the rock means that holds occasionally crumble slightly. Also, any rock to either side of the route should be considered suspect- belayers should probably wear a helmet.

Despite the less-than-ideal rock, Psoriasis is a great route with fun, challenging movement.

Location 

On the backside of French's are two bolt lines that share a start. The original line is an 11- listed in Portland Rock Climbs as Low Voltage. Psoriasis stays left and climbs straight up the steep wall.

Protection 

Six bolts and an anchor with (currently) fixed carabiners.


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By Kevin W. Corcoran
Jul 19, 2010

This route is listed in Portland Rock Climbs (3rd. Ed.) as "Project 5.12c (?)"

The climbing is very consistent with not much in the way of a rest. The are lots of slippery crimpers and some crumbly feet. Fun climbing.