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Pseudomania Area

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Pseudomania 

Pseudomania Area 


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Page Views: 1,032
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: TrevorB on Jan 1, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Pseudomania climbs the corner just inside the left...

Description 

The Pseudomania area is the relatively small crag just down and left from Upper Gibraltar. It hosts three steep and powerful lines through rock of decent quality. None of the climbs look like they get much traffic, despite offering aesthetic moves at a very scenic locale.

The hangers for "Try Something New" are missing, so come prepared. There is one fully-functional bolt and a hangerless bolt at the top of "Pseudomania" (which is also used for "Gold Coin.") Plenty of wicked healthy manzanitas are perched atop the crag just begging to be slung as well. Bring a cordelette and plenty of slings if you go that route.


Getting There 

Approaching from the bottom is probably possible, but not recommended. It's best to take the fairly obvious trial along the ridge that Upper Gibraltar tops out on, but just before reaching the leftmost prow of U.G., take a hard right through a brush-tunnel/trail to the outcroppings which mark the top of the routes. The left outcropping is the top of Try Something New, the right one is the for the pair of 5.11s. Rap in from there to gain access to a comfy ledge system.


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pseudomania Area:
Pseudomania   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Pseudomania Area

Featured Route For Pseudomania Area
Pseudomania climbs the corner just inside the left skyline

Pseudomania 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  CA : Central Coast : ... : Pseudomania Area
Steep finger and hands corner through clean rock offering great pro. Can also be TR'd (with plenty of swing potential.)Some of the jams have nice sharp features, taping is recommended unless you're a universal donor.After you round the corner, its easy, juggy climbing to the top. It would warrant more stars were it longer (and if I didn't get bit like mad by the mean-spirited ants at the bottom.)...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Pseudomania Area
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 19, 2007
CONDITION REPORT 

I attempted to climb Pseudomania this last summer and had quite a time scrambling through the manzanita. Once I rapped down to the base of the climb, I was swarmed by bees and a host of fire ants cascading out of the crack. Needless to say, I was bummed, because the route looks awesome, both aesthetically and physically. Here's to staring down routes without doing them...

By Richard Shore
May 4, 2011

The "fully functional" bolt atop Pseudomania was less than confidence inspiring with a corroded SMC hanger. It pulled out with surprising ease, and I was shocked to see that it was only an old 1/4" x 1-1/4" nail drive! This antique was replaced with a beefy, stainless 1/2" X 4-1/2" expansion bolt. The "wicked healthy" manzanitas are anything but since the fire. Use the bomber new bolt and a rivet hanger or wired stopper on the hangerless rawl.