Pseudomania Area Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Pseudomania climbs the corner just inside the left...
The Pseudomania area is the relatively small crag just down and left from Upper Gibraltar. It hosts three steep and powerful lines through rock of decent quality. None of the climbs look like they get much traffic, despite offering aesthetic moves at a very scenic locale.
The hangers for "Try Something New" are missing, so come prepared. There is one fully-functional bolt and a hangerless bolt at the top of "Pseudomania" (which is also used for "Gold Coin.") Plenty of wicked healthy manzanitas are perched atop the crag just begging to be slung as well. Bring a cordelette and plenty of slings if you go that route.
Approaching from the bottom is probably possible, but not recommended. It's best to take the fairly obvious trial along the ridge that Upper Gibraltar tops out on, but just before reaching the leftmost prow of U.G., take a hard right through a brush-tunnel/trail to the outcroppings which mark the top of the routes. The left outcropping is the top of Try Something New, the right one is the for the pair of 5.11s. Rap in from there to gain access to a comfy ledge system.
Weather station 2.9 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Pseudomania Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pseudomania Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pseudomania Area:
Pseudomania 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Pseudomania Area
Pseudomania 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c CA
: Central Coast
: ... : Pseudomania Area
Steep finger and hands corner through clean rock offering great pro. Can also be TR'd (with plenty of swing potential.)Some of the jams have nice sharp features, taping is recommended unless you're a universal donor.After you round the corner, its easy, juggy climbing to the top. It would warrant more stars were it longer (and if I didn't get bit like mad by the mean-spirited ants at the bottom.)...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Richard Shore
May 4, 2011
The "fully functional" bolt atop Pseudomania was less than confidence inspiring with a corroded SMC hanger. It pulled out with surprising ease, and I was shocked to see that it was only an old 1/4" x 1-1/4" nail drive! This antique was replaced with a beefy, stainless 1/2" X 4-1/2" expansion bolt. The "wicked healthy" manzanitas are anything but since the fire. Use the bomber new bolt and a rivet hanger or wired stopper on the hangerless rawl.
By Jack Hereford
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 19, 2015
Park as for Gibraltar, take the trail uphill out of the shady cove and go up for ~10 min. When possible follow a trail right to get to the top of UG then find a small path close to the cliff edge and it will take you to the top of Pseudomania, anchors farthest on climbers left. Enjoy, much more fun than the Nose! Or am I insane...