Pseudo Wallet Eater
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Photo by Errett Allen. Me on the first pitch. I ...
Start about 30-40 feet left of the start of Osiris.
P1. Easy scramble past some bushes up into a wide chimney-crack system. You'll encounter a knot of backoff slings that you can't see from the ground about 90-100 feet up. From that point climb up and right under a diagonal jog in the crack system, then continue following it when it jogs straight up again (5.9) and belay on a nice but small ledge.
P2. Step right into an obvious crack/dihedral (5.7) and continue to a belay ledge where this route intersects Osiris.
P3a. Step right and follow a crack between Osiris and George's Tree, or....
P3b. Step back left and follow a series of closely spaced parallel cracks (5.7) to Fang Ledge, left of the Fang (this is what we did -- these are the numerous parallel cracks that are visibile and obvious from the approach trail -- the "pages" of the Book). I found these "Pages" surprisingly clean and fun.
P4.Follow Osiris to the top.If you are not one of the whiners who hates Osiris, you won't hate this route either. The only unenjoyable part of the route was the start.
Standard trad rack up to 4 inch.
|Comments on Pseudo Wallet Eater
|By Errett Allen|
Aug 20, 2004
The right hand third pitch variation mentioned is quite good and goes at 5.9. Then you can follow the George's Tree finish to the top.
|By Cale Farnham|
Sep 10, 2008
Small stuff up to #3 and #4 Camalot! Very unique and tricky in a few spots! Good protection and overall a fun climb!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2010
F.A.: Paul Mayrose, 1970.