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A neat, recommended trad climb. Start INSIDE the obvious cave at ground level, jam out the crack in the ceiling, pull out onto the varnished face above on bomber handjams, and jam up the crack to easier terrain above. The rock is good, especially at the bottom, and takes great pro. Recommended, and good practice for learning to trust jams!
Look for an obvious cave in the base of the Slab Wall, behind the Inclined Boulder. A steep splitter handcrack comes out of the cave and shoots up the steep face above. Walk off or lower off the bolted anchor just right of the topout.
Trad gear: bring a few cams up to a #1 C4 for the bottom, and a few big nuts for the top. There is no bolted anchor for this climb, but a 2-bolt toprope anchor can be found just to the right of the topout. Clip into this, set a directional in the top of the crack, and good to go.
From: Gallup, NM
Mar 3, 2014
One of my favorite climbs at Mentmore--A great variety of moves, starting with some stemming, then pulling up into a crack for 10 feet of crack climbing, then solidly fun face climbing above. Protects well with .5-#4 camalots, but could easily be done with .5-#2. As mentioned, some good nut placements in the upper sections, though cracks are flaring in places.