Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Unknown, but probably early 1960s.
Page Views: 1,939 total · 12/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Jun 2, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a distinctly "old school" Eldorado route and is sparsely protected at the crux. Climb up the ramp for approximately 35-40 meters and find a belay stance. Looking upwards and right, follow some enjoyable face climbing angling towards a break in a small roof band extending across the face. Surmounting this small roof is the crux of the climb, and protection BITD was poor (knife blade pitions!). Some smaller nuts can be placed but the direction of pull makes for "interesting" climbing; it's best to be solid at the grade and not fall here! Above the roof band, the angle relents and the standard route is soon intersected. Follow the regular route for ~ 20 meters to the top.

Location Suggest change

This uses the same start as the standard Pseudo Sidetrack.

Scramble down the East Slabs, being very cautious in wet or icy conditions!

Protection Suggest change

Standard Eldorado rack, nothing very large.

Photos

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