Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
As of the printing of the Don Mellor guidebook, this route has yet to see a first free ascent. That was in 2001. Considering all of the activity on Poke-O since then, it is hard to believe this route remains constant with one point of aid.
Then again, it is Poke-O.
Psalm 32--the song of forgiveness--is the tremendous, plumb line right of Southern Hospitality (5.11+) that snakes its' way up the cliff using incipient cracks, thin faces and corners.
Pitch 1: Follow the crack in the vertical dike up to a series of bolts and a balancy crux sequence. Belay at bolts out right on a ledge under an ominous roof. 5.11+ / 60 feet
Pitch 2: Crank up past the roof on the left and follow a tight line of bolts up a technically baffling face to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.12a/b / 90 feet
Pitch 3: Follow the obvious right-facing corner to a point where the holds and free climbing runs out. Use bolts and aid technique to reach the anchor. (Note: There is a section of about 15 feet of aid to reach the anchor.) 5.12+, A0 / 100 feet
About 80 feet to the right of Gamesmanship. on a low wall. Psalm 32 is the furthest crack line to the right.
10 quickdraws, and small rack of stoppers/RPs plus camming units up to a gold Camalot size.