Prune Face 5.9+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Drew Bedford, Conrad Anker |
| Submitted By: | Vince Romney on Jun 22, 2004 |
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Trin cruisin the last (easy) half of Prune Face
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route ascends the right side of the slab to the mid-point, then traverses along the small roof to the left side and follows grooves to the top. The start of Prune Face is shared with Straight On For You. Climb the groove up to clip the first bolt. Surmount the steep section with thin moves, and then begin the fun. Don't slip right before the third bolt. After passing the third bolt, achieve the stance below the mid-point "roof", and shuffle left (you can place a small TCO here) to the obvious grooves. Climb the much easier grooves to the belay anchor, placing small cams and stoppers along the way. A fun climb, particularly because of the nice, short approach.
Protection 3 bolts, small cams, and medium to large nuts.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 2, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| A good route, the eae of the upper grooves detracts. It looked like 2 (.75) cams would protect the grooves. The only part of this route that differs from Straight on for You, the upper face, is pretty easy. |
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| I think we are rating it harder due to the bouldery 5.10 move to mount the face. The slab above is 5.9, but that initial move is the tough one. Thanks for the info on the correct line of Prune Face. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a R
| Ahh, that explains it. The beginning felt a lot harder than 5.9! Although you can make it easier by using the tree :-) |
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