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Prune Face Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Iron Grit 
Iron Grit Variation 
Prune Face 
Shuffleboard 
Straight On For You 

Prune Face 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Conrad Anker
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Vince Romney on Jun 22, 2004
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Trin cruisin the last (easy) half of Prune Face
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Description 

This route ascends the right side of the slab to the mid-point, then traverses along the small roof to the left side and follows grooves to the top. The start of Prune Face is shared with Straight On For You. Climb the groove up to clip the first bolt. Surmount the steep section with thin moves, and then begin the fun. Don't slip right before the third bolt. After passing the third bolt, achieve the stance below the mid-point "roof", and shuffle left (you can place a small TCO here) to the obvious grooves. Climb the much easier grooves to the belay anchor, placing small cams and stoppers along the way. A fun climb, particularly because of the nice, short approach.


Protection 

3 bolts, small cams, and medium to large nuts.



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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 2, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A good route, the eae of the upper grooves detracts. It looked like 2 (.75) cams would protect the grooves. The only part of this route that differs from Straight on for You, the upper face, is pretty easy.

By Nathan Fisher
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I think we are rating it harder due to the bouldery 5.10 move to mount the face. The slab above is 5.9, but that initial move is the tough one. Thanks for the info on the correct line of Prune Face.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

Ahh, that explains it. The beginning felt a lot harder than 5.9! Although you can make it easier by using the tree :-)