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Prudence 

Prudence 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: NAZ Oldschool
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 5, 2007
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Description 

Steep and broken face moves to the sweet corner. Very cool tips to second digit leaning layback locks to a steepening good finger section to the rim.

Again, good rock and good movements...


Protection 

(2)0-2 TCU's, (3)3 TCU, med/sm wired nuts



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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 15, 2008

Footholds seemed to appear just when you needed them. The start was scary and detracted from the route. Glad the anchors were placed on top to avoid the choss.

By Dean Hoffman
May 22, 2008

Maybe its finger size dependent but man this seemed harder than 11c. Proud lead for those the wander on down.

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
May 1, 2010

IThe start may be a bit scarey but atleast the start is mercifully short.

By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 23, 2013

Objectively: The start is 10-15 feet of unprotected climbing on moderate to good quality rock with a 5.9 friction traverse move. At this point your feet are maybe 5 feet above the bouldery ground below and you can be spotted well by your belayer. I found the start interesting, significantly below the grade of the climb, and safe.

Don't let the start deter you from getting on this classic finger crack!