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Twitch Rock
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Dream Variation, The S 
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Prowler S 
Twitch S 

Prowler 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Prep: Jason Baker, FFA: Mark Anderson, June 11, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,310
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 11, 2014

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Twitch Rock from the road. Prowler climbs the lef...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Prowler rides the blunt buttress of black schist that forms the left edge of the cresting wave of Twitch Rock. With athletic, gym-style slaps between large slopers, prolific shade, and a trivial approach, this line has the potential to become the most popular 5.14 in Clear Creek Canyon. The route lacks the fingery crimps or stopper cruxes of many of the canyon's other hard lines, making this a great choice for a first 5.14 project. While the rock quality is not ideal, the line boasts sneaky good position, movement, and continuity--Clear Creek Power Endurance at its finest.

Big jugs lead to a good ledge below the third bolt. The hardest single move is a long reach to an incut, 1-pad edge at the fourth bolt, but the redpoint crux is linking the ensuing string of 10-or-so consecutive slaps and hooking moves to turn the lip of the curling wave.

Location 

Prowler climbs the obvious prow right of Twitch.

Protection 

6 bolts to a hidden 2-bolt anchor over the lip of the cliff (bring long draws for this to avoid shredding your rope).


Photos of Prowler Slideshow Add Photo
Steep!
Steep!
Prowler in profile.
Prowler in profile.
Groping over the lip of Prowler.
Groping over the lip of Prowler.
One of many slap moves on the ever-steeping prow.
One of many slap moves on the ever-steeping prow.
A pre-send go.
A pre-send go.

Comments on Prowler Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 11, 2014

Many thanks to Jason Baker for discovering and equipping this line. Thanks for graciously sharing it with me, it's destined to become a Clear Creek classic!
By mlloyd
From: denver
Jun 20, 2014

Nice job on this, Mark. I'm psyched about your additions to the canyon recently... we got them in the new guidebook. I went up and tried this yesterday, and I'm psyched... it's definitely my summer project. Thanks for getting this rig done! If you have a sec, I would love to pick your brain for some beta for when you climb left just after the bulge... could you PM me? Also... I have some projects that I have been trying if you're interested....
By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Jun 26, 2014

It truly is a great climb to be a first 5.14 project. I tried it today with Matt, this (along with a few at New River) got me psyched to sport climb again.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2014
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

Unbelievable climbing! Cannot imagine such a short line being so fun! Excellent slapping...this is definitely going to be my first 5.14 project! Amazing! Thanks for putting up the line! :)
By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Jul 9, 2014

Just sent this morning, what a cool line! Matt said it was 2nd ascent?
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

Quick question...it doesn't seem to add too much difficulty...but does Prowler finish up and left to the anchors of the 13+ project or does it continue straight up to the random quickdraw over the roof?
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 23, 2014

It goes straight up. It was originally bolted to go out left but was rebolted by the first ascentionist. Either way, you are past the crux, so it probably doesn't matter.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

Would anyone be opposed to me putting up Permadraws that are grey in color so that they blend in more with the rock. They will be 13" ClimbTech Permas that should last quite a long time and be very safe! If anyone has a problem with that, please tell me by September 1st! I will put up 3 Permadraws on bolts 3, 4, and 5...so the crux bolts; this will replace the project draws right now!
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 18, 2014

Fine with me. I believe the draws fixed now belong to Jason Baker, so you might want to run it by him.
By mlloyd
From: denver
Sep 5, 2014

Since I've been climbing on this route so much, I thought I would add a proper anchor. The original anchors where two regular bolts, are oddly placed above the lip. I added chain to get them over the lip, quicklinks and biners... all dialed out now.

I sent this rig today after a bunch of tries... 18 to be exact. Obviously I'm not a power climber. I'm not sure, I think it could be a little soft when compared to Interstellar and Shine. The route feels about the same difficulty as Grim Aura at Primo, so 13d?. I don't care one way or another, honestly I'm psyched to have climbed such a fun line. Just a thought.

I'm going to try and climb out left after the crux now, past Luke's anchors, all the way to the anchors of Twitch, covering new ground (a bit of a Kimbal-ism). All those are possible, and that would add 15 feet of climbing and some value....