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Arizona
> Central Arizona
> Queen Creek Canyon
> Lower Devil's C…
> Totem-Proto Area
Proto Type
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 0 from 1
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Routes in Totem-Proto Area
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Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Totem Pole, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson |
| Page Views: | 1,456 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | arjunmh on May 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
The route starts in the crunchy wide crack that can be avoided by climbing on easy rock up the arete to the right. Climb as high as comfortable and place whatever wide gear that you can in the crack. Transition into the crack, rest on the ledge, and then head into more difficult ground. Place a key #3 before getting into the thin cruxy stuff. The ground up FA went up and then down, and then traversed right to avoid the loose flakes and bad quality rock with no pro in this section to head left and over bulges (see photo). We will likely return in the Fall to clean up this cruxy section and place a bolt or two if need be (good gear may open up once all the loose flakes are knocked off) such that the line can continue straight up into the thin seam/crack above the section of bad quality rock.
It is a compelling line and I will undoubtedly remove the "avoid" rating if it cleans up nicely as this will be a fun way to get to the top of the tower.
It is a compelling line and I will undoubtedly remove the "avoid" rating if it cleans up nicely as this will be a fun way to get to the top of the tower.
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