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Totem-Proto Area
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Proto Type 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: arjunmh on May 6, 2013
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AMH on the ground up FA. Note the tenuous traverse...


The route starts in the crunchy wide crack that can be avoided by climbing on easy rock up the arete to the right. Climb as high as comfortable and place whatever wide gear that you can in the crack. Transition into the crack, rest on the ledge, and then head into more difficult ground. Place a key #3 before getting into the thin cruxy stuff. The ground up FA went up and then down, and then traversed right to avoid the loose flakes and bad quality rock with no pro in this section to head left and over bulges (see photo). We will likely return in the Fall to clean up this cruxy section and place a bolt or two if need be (good gear may open up once all the loose flakes are knocked off) such that the line can continue straight up into the thin seam/crack above the section of bad quality rock.

It is a compelling line and I will undoubtedly remove the "avoid" rating if it cleans up nicely as this will be a fun way to get to the top of the tower.


North face of Proto Pipe tower. This is the prominent north facing crack system that leads to the new anchors that we put in for "Overcoming Inertia."


Double rack with some little stoppers. Will likely add a bolt or two next season if the cruxy section really doesn't have any good gear placement..

Photos of Proto Type Slideshow Add Photo
A bit better exposure showing the lower section of the route through the cruxy section of bad rock.
A bit better exposure showing the lower section of...
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