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 ADVANCED
Totem-Proto Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Shit Salad S 
Direct North Face T 
Drop 'em South S 
Fern Gully Arete S 
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 
GTKO T 
Inertia T 
Milk of Manatee T 
Original Optomist T 
Overcoming Inertia T 
Pathological Optimist T,S 
Pipe Bomb T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Protean Catch T 
Proto Pipe S 
Proto Type T 
Shakin' & Eggs T 
Totem Pole Direct S 
Totem Pole, The S 
Up in Smoke T 
Unsorted Routes:

Proto Pipe 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: RyanJames on Feb 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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AMH at the top after scary (but thrilling) upper r...

Description 

Somewhat chossy opening leads to excellent climbing on excellent rock. If desired, top out and check out the view atop this pinnacle.


Location 

Just up the hill from the Totem pole.


Protection 

About 9 bolts.



Photos of Proto Pipe Slideshow Add Photo
AMH at a good rest ledge after the way sketchy, scary, runout start. Rest here, gun through the rest ... delicately!
AMH at a good rest ledge after the way sketchy, sc...
Comments on Proto Pipe Add Comment
Show which comments
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Poor rock for the opening moves leads to better, spicy climbing above.

By elijah moncrieff
Dec 10, 2012

Good quality spire, some difficult moves 2/3 of the way up. A rest half way helps for the crux, also there is a sweet mono just before the top at the end of the crux. Amazing view no doubt.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

Wow, this would be a 4 star route if the crappy rock quality that makes for a scary start was cleaned up a bit and the bolts placed a bit farther left. Getting up to that rest ledge before the 4th bolt puts your mind in the right space to deal with the upper runout. Phew! It is possible to use small gear to supplement and get through some of the runout. The upper runouts are definitely scary, but the fall would be clean (think Adios Larry). Excellent rock quality after that rest ledge and very fun, delicate and thoughtful movement to get through it all cleanly. The sweet mono was definitely helpful!

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

According to Marty's book this was established in '91 by Andy Marquardt and Leo Henson. Given the wandery nature of the bolts, the runout, and the excellent clipping holds (well, for someone a few inches taller than me!), I'm guessing it was done ground up. Can safely say that doing so was a tremendous achievement!