Protein Supplement is a good boost to a day at Diablo. Start up 5.7 slab with 1 or 2 gear pieces (or solo); you can also clip the 1st bolt of Sunbaked which won't entirely protect you all the way to the next bolt. Then straight up a near-vertical crux to the left end of a big ledge. Continue up another steeper section to the anchor. Some people like to put in another piece of gear after the big ledge. Most confident 5.10 climbers will be happy with only quickdraws on this climb (i.e., bringing no trad gear), but leaders near their limit may want a light rack.
The climbing is fun and the rock is clean. The downsides are the climb is a little discontinuous, and the fact that you need to bring gear or climb unprotected at the start probably makes this see less traffic than others at the grade at Diablo.
On the far right side of Winter Wall, the columns are oriented such that they diagonal downward to the right. This is the left of the two climbs in this area.
Climb 12 in the Winter Wall beta photo. See also The original online guide photo.
5 bolts + optional gear. 2-bolt anchor.
To reach the first bolt, nuts or 1 or 2 cams (up to #0.75 cam or so) is necessary, unless you're ok with soloing up to 5.7 for 30'.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This route takes small nuts surprisingly well. I found two solid placements before the first bolt and another one after the big ledge midway through. A decent route.
|By Rick Bradshaw|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall. I think Chris was the driver on this one.
|By Karl Kiser|
Apr 1, 2008
Mixed route put up by Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser. We climbed an easy route to the left which probably should not be done because of bad rock near the top.
Nov 28, 2010
I used a Yellow TCU and a .5 C4 for the first 30ish feet. Halfway up there's a place where a Blue TCU will protect, and I use that word loosely, a run out section just above the big ledge, and before pulling over the bulge.