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protecting harness from abrasion
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By jellybean
Mar 26, 2013

My harnesses wear at the tie-in point on the bottom (legs). I have tried to wrap them with climbing tape but the tape seems to get pushed aside. I'm considering using duct tape. Anybody else have this problem and what have you done? I think this condition is caused primarily from the belay loop and some serious "balldogging" partners. I have used Mammuts harness with the plastic protector but favor the fit of my current harness.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 26, 2013
...

Eat fewer jelly beans...


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Mar 26, 2013
Moby dick 5.11-

I've had the same problem on my 2 last harnesses. They were kaput after a year...I thought it might have to do with tying too much of a small loop with my figure 8? I'm interested to see what others suggest here.


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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Mar 26, 2013
RJN

Aren't harness supposed to wear out? I usually don't keep a harness more than a year, especially my gym harness as it takes lots of whippers.


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By Jared Garfield
Mar 26, 2013
Romancing the Stone

Ive used BD and Petzl harnesses for a couple years of each and never had that problem. Working at a climbing gym and guiding, both were regularly used. The Petzl I replaced after 2 years when it got stolen and the BD I still have going on 2 years and neither show any signs of wear on the tie in points. Maybe it has something to do with how much hanging you do? Mine tend to wear where it rubs up against the rock.


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By Josh Janes
Mar 26, 2013

For a few years now I've been making little Cordura sleeves that wrap over the tie-in points providing a low-profile extra layer of abrasion resistance. They effectively triple the life of my harnesses which, as a FT climber, I go through very quickly.

Incidentally, the reason the lower tie-in points wear out first is that when you are rapping or being lowered down vertical or low angle rock the movement of your legs causes the lower tie-in point to saw back and forth while under load.


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By bearbreeder
Mar 26, 2013

my BD momentum dont have that issue even after 5 years of near daily use

by dead birds on the other hand blew out the lower tie in point after a bit over a year ... same type of use

its a known issue on dead birds


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By jellybean
Mar 26, 2013

Josh, were do you get the cordura for the sleeves and how do you go about making them? This sounds like the best method. I don't believe the abrasion is caused by the rope and I rarely hang while climbing. My main climbing partner however will endlessly work a route leading me to believe the abrasion is caused from the belay loop while belaying. My harness is Petzl and is two years old but was shelved for a year do to an injury. I rarely climb off width/chimney so my harness appears brand new, except for the belay wear. Of the seven pitches I climbed yesterday I fell only once whereas my partner hung or fell 20+ times and his harnesses do not show the wear that mine do which is the reason I think its the belay loop and not the rope that is the culprit. These were reasonably hard sport pitches so some sussing of the routes is to be expected. I'm not concerned with new partners only extending the life of my harnesses. Also no duct tapers out there?
thanks


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By tom donnelly
Mar 28, 2013

I think a lot of the wear is caused by walking. With each step you take you can see the lower tie-in rub back and forth across the belay loop. The Mammut plastic or some different color Cordura should help. A lot of companies sew on an extra layer of nylon but it can be hard to tell when that has abraded through to the strength section inside.


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