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This is a fun slab with a weird up and down start. The crux is after the first bolt, and a fall onto the starting ledge is a real possibility- hence the R rating. Please don't break yourself. Follow the wandering bolts (definitely bolted on lead) to the shallow right facing corner- then up above to the seam/cracks. Finish with an unprotected 50 foot romp up the 5.0 prow.
Shares the start with Magic Circus. Climb up the broken crack 15 feet onto a little pillar/ledge, and then down climb to the right 10 feet. A 70 meter rope gets you down best.
Mainly bolts (5?) with a few finger sized cam options up higher. Lower off the bolt and pin anchor with webbing. The routes original pin/s have been removed and replaced with bolts.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
This is a great climb but getting to the 2nd bolt is serious. Tensioning over from Magic circus/Gummi bolts to the 2nd bolt (or a mega stick-clip) allows the remainder of the route to be enjoyed by those no longer willing to risk breaking their ankles. A few cams in the .75 to purple TCU range are useful above the bolts. Anchor is now 2 bolts and you can get off with a single 60.