Prophet's Honor 5.10 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Kris Gorny on Oct 31, 2010 |
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Top moves of Prohet's Honor. Photo: Nate Ericksson...
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Description Prophet's Honor begins on the slabby ledges to the right of Dark Corner. Climb the slab into a shallow overhanging alcove. Place good pro in the hand crack, traverse slightly left and go up the face to the top. Cool and fun climbing that protects reasonably well by Devil's Lake standards, especially with double ropes. Plenty of hidden crimps. Top moves are a bit run-out. Couldn't find info on first ascents. Swartling just lists the route as 5.9 without mentioning any names. I felt it was more like a solid 5.10.
Location Steep face to the right of Dark Corner. Easily (and, in my opinion, unfairly) overlooked perhaps because of the vicinity of such popular classics as Cheatah and Breakfast of Champions. I had no idea there was even a route there until Paul Wagener pointed it out to me.
Protection Up to #4 BD cams (#4 fits nicely on top of the shallow corner). Offset micronuts (Wild Country Superlights or HB's), Ballnuts.
Prophet's Honor. Wiggling in the Superlight.
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| Comments on Prophet's Honor |
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By Trad Nanny
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.9+ R
| Nice little route, keeps getting harder as you go up. Gorny, that #4 was totally rattly, and that super-light placement was non-existent! I jammed a solid #2 C4 and took it to the top. Not bad once I figured out the beta but the fall would have been a big whipper, "R" rated I think. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 29, 2011
| Where is the #4 placement? I rapped in and at the top couldn't find any spot for pro. But the thin crack to the right of the roof lower looked good for ballnutz and C3's. And really... 5.9+ Rhoads? This route looks harder than that... |
By Trad Nanny
Apr 30, 2011
rating: 5.9+ R
| The #4 is at the top of the alcove, you would actually climb up to place it and then climb back down to traverse left. I sunk a #.75 and a #1 a bit lower. I didn't see any good ball-nut placements.
I stand by the 5.9+, it just has alot of options and some tricky beta. |
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