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Promontory

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Abyss Boulder, The 
Exploding Energy Shard Boulder 
Main Wall 
Puff Boulder 

Promontory  


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Location: 41.6065, -124.1051 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,893
Administrators: Rick Shull, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Sep 12, 2007
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Lauri cleaning the 1st 20 feet of Blackbeard's Tea...

Description 

Promontory, a large "wave" of overhanging sandstone is situated in a spectacular setting overlooking the Pacific Ocean. There are also several smaller crags with routes as well. The rock is well featured with pockets and incut edges but can be a bit gritty if the routes have not been climbed recently.

Getting There 

Promontory is located off of Highway 101 in Del Norte County. If you are traveling from the north it is about 12 miles south of Crescent City. Coming from the south(Arcata, etc.), it is approximately 5 miles north of the town of Klamath. Look for the bridge crossing Wilson Creek and park in the beach access lot just south of the mouth of the creek. From the lot, walk north about 10 minutes. The rock is plainly visible from the parking area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.3 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',7],['5.12',7],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Promontory:
Blowhole   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 60'   Puff Boulder
Clicking Barnacles   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   Puff Boulder
Poop Deck   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 40'   The Abyss Boulder
Plague of Flies   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Exploding Energy Shard Boul...
Humboldt Current   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Wall
The Mermaid   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Main Wall
The Slow Spring   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Puff Boulder
Ride the Woody   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Wall
Man The Cannons   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 35'   The Abyss Boulder
Wildwood   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   Puff Boulder
Scurvy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Main Wall
Batten The Hatches   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   The Abyss Boulder
Gnarwhal   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   The Abyss Boulder
Lost At Sea   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   Main Wall
Shrapnel   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Main Wall
Pulling Teeth   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Wall
Riptide   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   The Abyss Boulder
Reality Check   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   Exploding Energy Shard Boul...
Great White   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Main Wall
Scared Straight   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Promontory

Featured Route For Promontory
Looking down the route the next day and yes, that'...

Blackbeard's Tears 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A2  CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Main Wall
The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting the wave and up to poison oak finish. Equalize bushes for anchor or bolt a new one. Often dripping with foggy love....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Promontory Slideshow Add Photo
Matt putting anchors into one of the many new rout...
Matt putting anchors into one of the many new rout...
Holladay-Ludwig in the distance...
Holladay-Ludwig in the distance...
Steve Ludwig cleaning past the roof on Blackbeard'...
Steve Ludwig cleaning past the roof on Blackbeard'...
Humboldt Current (5.10a) with first bolt clipped. ...
BETA PHOTO: Humboldt Current (5.10a) with first bolt clipped. ...
Beta2
Beta2
Centipede (5.9) on TR above first bolt. If leading...
BETA PHOTO: Centipede (5.9) on TR above first bolt. If leading...
This is the main face
This is the main face
Fun TR.
Fun TR.
A view into the main wall corridor of Promontory f...
A view into the main wall corridor of Promontory f...
Had to ford Wilson Creek that day...again.
Had to ford Wilson Creek that day...again.
Dan Hatfield chilling.
Dan Hatfield chilling.
Beach Morning Glory on the approach to Promontory.
Beach Morning Glory on the approach to Promontory.
parking & approach
parking & approach
Beta
Beta
Waiting for a complete free (or even a 2nd?) ascen...
Waiting for a complete free (or even a 2nd?) ascen...
Beta1
Beta1
Nice...
Nice...
Beta3
Beta3

Comments on Promontory Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 30, 2014
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Nov 26, 2007
Any info. on the route to the right and around the corner of Redwood Burl? Was this a Bob or Doug creation? It looks fun.
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Nov 26, 2007
If you mean the one on the south arete, it is called Shrapnel and is supposed to be 11c/d. I haven't done it as the bolts look to be in sad shape.
By Rodney Ley
Aug 15, 2010
Centipede was a great introduction to ocean area climbing: dramatic surf pounding nearby, steep/solid rock, and interesting moves. As a Colorado climber I was appalled at the condition of the bolt heads, but some of them might be 19 years old! Could not find a 2-bolt anchor at the top as mentioned in the local guidebook, but rigged okay TR anchor off two s/s bolts about 10 meters back and left of the master point.
Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "oce...
Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "ocean corridor" area at the base of Centipede (5.9).
By Taylor Morrow
May 24, 2011
I really enjoyed this area, really easy to get to and the bolts on most of the climbs dont seam to be in such bad shape. cool little beach area.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Dec 19, 2014
So fine you all are doing this crag up right. Thanks to You & ASCA!

Way to go. I hope you had a blast being out there in whatever capacity you helped/help!

I am so curious.

Where is Scared Straight? FA of Pulling Teeth?

2nd pitches to Humboldt Current, Great White, Redwood Burl?

Traverse the main face left from Shrapnel?

Ah... The Great White, I hope it is cleaning up nicely-what a route.

Is it getting some traffic? I hope so. Wow, titanium glue-ins!

Are there any routes, besides Blackbeard's Tears, which go to the top of the main wall; has it had a second ascent?

How often does the lower part of the route to the anchors below the seemingly impossible "wave" get done?

That's a sweet crack, for sure...

Who did the .10b & .10d on Puff Boulder? When are more going in? Is there a huge overhang on that west side of this rock?

Kool routes on Abyss Boulder! This must be the east boulder, as I recall, of the two boulders across from Puff Boulder. I climbed the west one via E.E.S.

Happy winter!
By Lurker
Dec 29, 2014
Hey Matthias. Glad somebody is interested in this place! Trying to get the locals stoked (or re-stoked) on it.

Scared Straight is just left of Great White, and appears to be a little harder. I think this and Pulling Teeth are Chemello and/or Humphrey routes, I should probably add the FA info.

Yeah, all those routes could probably have a 2nd pitch. Humboldt Current for sure, the other two would probably be pretty hard. We've still got a lot of work to do pulling old bolts, patching holes, scrubbing routes, so 2nd pitches are pretty low on the priority list. Would be cool tho.

Great White is definitely getting some traffic and cleaning up. Probably the showpiece route at Promontory, along with Redwood Burl and Blackbeard's Tears. We haven't rebolted Redwood Burl yet but it's next on the list. All of the old routes are getting titanium glue-ins (thanks to the ASCA), and new routes are going in with SS glue-ins.

I think one of the Puff boulder routes is a Humphrey creation, can't recall the other one. The Puff boulder does have a massively overhanging west face, which currently sports one .13+ r.b. route, that is likely still a project. Will probably receive new bolts at some point.

Face left of Shrapnel? Shrapnel is on the south arete/face. Maybe you mean the north arete/face? A couple folks have been eyeing a new route on the north arete (looks killer), haven't looked much left of that.
By Lurker
Dec 29, 2014
Matthias-

Any clue how hard Blackbeard's Tears is free-climbing wise?

It currently sports 2 anchors, both of which appear to be in pretty bad shape, one before it gets steep, and the 2nd before the "wave". No idea if that thing has seen a second ascent. I think the condition of the first set of anchors is enough to deter somebody from going to the second set.

I've climbed it to the first anchor, which is a pretty nice 10+ crack. My guess is (mainly based on how steep it is) that the section to the 2nd anchors goes at minimum .12+/.13-, and that the route all the way to the top probably goes at .13+(R), if not harder. The route looks insanely steep up high! Also looks pretty spicy past the upper bulge.

We'll replace the anchors on this thing as soon as it drys up (great route name by the way), as it's pretty soaked right now. I think this thing will be quite the all-gear testpiece...for the right suitor.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Dec 30, 2014
Lurker:
Thanks so very much for the info. & fotografs. Greatly appreciated!

Fascinating and fantastic.

I was thinking of a traverse/girdle from somewhere on Shrapnel over to Blackbeard's/Great White or further.

If I recall, there's that ledge system at the top of Redwood Burl/ Great White, then a horizontal weakness that goes across...?

Redwood Burl rebolt. Awesome.
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