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Promised 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Cal Swoager & John Govi, 1984
Page Views: 559
Submitted By: Jon St John on Jun 25, 2008

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Description 

A mix of crack and face climbing make this route a super-pleasure! Most of the guide books say to start in the middle-to-left part of the face, although it is possible to start in the crack on the right and traverse to the left. At any rate, a series of thought-provoking and interesting moves lead to a short finger-crack that splits the face. Embrace the crack with good finger-locks, or go one-hand-in, one-hand-out to reach the top of the crack. Continue up the face to shuts.

This route is a bit tricky/heady at the start, but can be adequately protected throughout.

Location 

The route is on a large face, climber's left from Gemini cracks. This route is best identified by locating the short crack (10-15 feet) that splits the face.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to 1". If you traverse from the right, a 2" piece is helpful in the wide crack. Bring a handful of slings to avoid rope drag. Shuts at top.


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