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 ADVANCED
Hallway Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby's Head 
Break on Through 
Hallway Traverse 
No Knees 
Project? 
Static Eliminator 
Static Head 
Street Corner 
Wedgie Roof 

Project? 

Hueco: V10+ Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10+ Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Hasn't had one yet...
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Jan 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Break on Through tackles the sunny part of the fac...

Description 

Start on the sit for Static Eliminator. Before reaching the dihedral, head left onto the blank face and attempt to traverse up and left, perhaps meeting up with the top of Break on Through.

Has anyone done this? It looks epic.

Location 

Start as for Static Eliminator Sit.

Protection 

Pads and spotters. The boulder is surprisingly tall.


Comments on Project? Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 21, 2011

To date, no one has yet linked this line. It might not go at all. Bernd has given it some effort, but he seemed pretty negative about it going last I talked to him.
By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Feb 12, 2011

I visited this guy today. I rapped down and took a close look at the holds (you need to be close). It looks link-able. There is one section that has some really tiny holds.
It looks to me like the lower crux comes right at the beginning of the variation from Static Eliminator: you make a big move left to a slopey edge/pinch so that you can get your right hand in the "good" two finger pocket. This involves some really bad feet.
Then you have a few positioning moves, and then THE crux: Somehow use a two finger knob crimp, a somewhat large slopey edge angled in the wrong direction, and a few tiny but incut edges to move up and left to easier ground. You have a large left foot way out left and a decent but high right foot rail to work with. Hard.
Anyways, I brushed and chalked whatever looked like it might be useful. I'm not strong enough for this right now.
Anyone want an FA?
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 18, 2011

I scoped this out on a rope, too. For sure it seemed possible. I mean, I couldn't do anything with the holds but at least I could identify them, which is more than I can say for some of Sharma's problems. Seems that these days some of the kids out there would have little trouble. Tall, proud line for sure. One of the best in SB.
By Bob Banks
Mar 27, 2012

I worked this a fair amount too (many years ago) getting to the middle of the wall where everything pretty much disappears. It might be possible, but I lost any hope. The fact that Bernd gave up too doesn't help my optimism any, since he's light years stronger than I ever was.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 21, 2012

Bernd is very strong. But he's, like, an adult. Where are the teenagers? Fer crissakes it's a boulder!