Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Project-ing Trad lines
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Apr 16, 2013
First climb after knee surgery
See Slim's comment.... If you want to see people onsite .12, travel.... Myself, I'm 48 and will onsite some.12's and will flail on some .11's onsite. Its all good since its all a learning experience

As for what YOU are climbing and what you wanna project whatever, go for it. Get out there, push yourself in a responsible manner, learn from your failure, rejoice in your successes and do it for yourself. In the long run, everyone will care more about the latest baseball scores more than what you learned today, and thats cool.
chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Joined Jul 24, 2006
269 points
Apr 17, 2013
the fridge leavenworth
Dont remeber who said this but. "I've seen 5.11 divided into 11 different grades of increasing difficulty, as follows: 5.11a, 5.10d, 5.11-, 5.11b, 5.11, 5.11c, 5.9 squeeze, 5.11+, 5.10 OW, 5.12a, 5.11d." Hmann2
Joined Mar 10, 2011
33 points
Apr 17, 2013
nimbus at lions head
No one i know climbs in michigan ... grand ledge is a joke. Most summer weekends are trips to red river gorge, seneca, ontario. Winter i usually hit red rocks. Ive also been to Jtree.. Indian Creek. Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Joined Dec 12, 2012
33 points
Administrator
Apr 17, 2013
El Chorro
Will S. wrote:
I love how precise you need to be on forums... I have been climbing for 15 years .. mostly trad .. i have never seen anyone onsight 5.12.. i assume i need to clarify here.. 5.12 trad. when i post a question im not asking to the elite group of climber that you all think you are a part of. I doubt any of you climbed with or were friends with dean potter, sonny trotter, caldwell, ondra, sharma, honnold, jardine.. also .. the original question was at what level do you start project-ing? if we could have just answered with ratings, instead of dickhead responses, this would have been a lot easier for all of us.


Sorry man, but you are just wrong. Spend any time traveling around the US and you'll meet plenty of people who can onsight mid 5.12 trad. Spend any time in Europe and you'll meet people who don't even trad climb that often but when they do, they can onsight mid 5.12 trad. Come to think of it, I've belayed more than one person on a 5.12 trad onsight, and even come close myself (and I am a very average climber).

Anyways, not here to stir the pot. There are no rules and getting tied down to them (and also spending too much time on MP arguing about them) can only hurt your climbing. Like NCRob83 said, "Project whatever grade you need, try hard, commit, and enjoy."

PS, Rob, have you onsighted 5.12 trad? Probably soon if not already.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Apr 17, 2013
Kolob
As someone who moved out west from MI, I can tell ya that people crank a lot harder than you describe. Move out of MI, and see the light. ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
710 points
Apr 17, 2013
Big Bend (South faces in Aug Bad Idea)
Pseudo serious answer: If it is one pitch it is cragging. Project which ever line you want to it is all practice to get better. Everyone plays their own game with their own rules, so don't sweat it. Your rules will reflect what you want to do in climbing. The stupid standard I hold myself to is that you only get one chance to onsight. Being capable of confronting the challenges when you get on the climb is critical to onsighting. Naturally this only really matters on bigger remote climbs where protection, daylight, and the difficulty of bailing are factors in the equation for success. Through that lens if it is one pitch off the ground bolted or not it is just practice for the time when it matters. Working to progress is respectable at any grade. Wyatt Payne
From Littleton CO
Joined Apr 2, 2005
519 points
Apr 17, 2013
Stabby
We're not being facetious about the mid .12 onsighting thing. Just something you haven't seen yet. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Apr 17, 2013
nimbus at lions head
ok .. you all win the 5.12 onsight debate .. although i love to argue .. i have no choice to believe you. I will be anxiously waiting to see it happen.. hopefully some routes in RRG that i have looked and shook my head.

so after all that has been said .. this is what i gather.

always try to onsight if you fail then work it out.. but never project from the start. understandable.. and for the most part its probably how it would go down... or not give a shit and do whatever i want.. meh.. we'll see i do like a little r.e.s.p.e.c.t.

this perhaps should be another post but .. im looking at this A1 crack in KY.. should i try to.. wait... IF i attempt to try this at the end of the season... assuming im in shape and not injured... should i work it out on lead or TR it and figure it out? i assume the same rules apply .. go for the onsight .. or whatever that would be called .. onsight FA ?? right .. that will happen.. lol

thanks for all your comments and banter .. it was a lot of fun!!
Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Joined Dec 12, 2012
33 points
Administrator
Apr 17, 2013
El Chorro
Will S. wrote:
so after all that has been said .. this is what i gather. always try to onsight if you fail then work it out.. but never project from the start...


That is absolutely NOT the way. What is the point in trying to on-sight something that is way over your head? All your going to do is waste energy for the rest of the day. The line between a smart onsight attempt and a foolish one is blurry, but it's there. Bottom line is, if you try to onsight something that is way to hard for you then you've just decreased your chances of sending it that day, or even the next day. It boils down to what is more important to you: Maybe getting the lucky but still badass onsight every blue moon, or continuously projecting, sending, and getting stronger.

Will S. wrote:
or not give a shit and do whatever i want...


That's better. Just go have fun, what other people think is seriously the least important part of climbing. By even considering what others think is only putting a limit on your success.

Will S. wrote:
im looking at this A1 crack in KY.. should i try to.. wait... IF i attempt to try this at the end of the season... assuming im in shape and not injured... should i work it out on lead or TR it and figure it out? i assume the same rules apply .. go for the onsight .. or whatever that would be called .. onsight FA ?? right .. that will happen.. lol thanks for all your comments and banter .. it was a lot of fun!!


I'm confused. Is this an aid crack that you want to free? Is it at a well known area? Does it look mega hard? Sounds like a project to me. Get up there and check it out!

This may seem silly, but the sequel to The Self Coached Climber is called Redpoint, and it has all sorts of projecting tips. It's more about sport climbing, but once you start projecting gear routes it's pretty much all the same.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Apr 17, 2013
nimbus at lions head
it's an aid crack.. not so popular .. bottom half looks doable .. top half looks thin..it's only 50' or so .. i would love to free it but someone is working it and will probably beat me to it. i think i will make it my summer project.

anyone have a 50' stick clip i can borrow ??

thanks Ryan
Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Joined Dec 12, 2012
33 points
Administrator
Apr 17, 2013
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
If its an aid climb, aid it and check it out. If you cant aid what makes you think you"d get enough good gear to lead it? LeeAB
From ABQ, NM
Joined Aug 3, 2008
10,131 points
Apr 18, 2013
Stabby
I've seen a guy place gear with a stick clip -all the way up- before. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!