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Project-ing Trad lines
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By Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Apr 15, 2013
nimbus at lions head

at what level can you respectably project a trad line ? 5.11? 5.10? 10B? 10C? 10D?


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Apr 15, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

From whom are you trying to garner respect?

Who gives a fuck??

I can't tell if this is a joke or not, so I'm going to assume it's not.


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Apr 15, 2013

You can cheat at any grade you wish.

Ground up, no hanging. Hanging and working moves are for spurt wankers.


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Apr 15, 2013
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

5.3?


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Apr 15, 2013
Rumney

Nick Stayner wrote:
5.13e?


Fixed.


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By safetyfourth
Apr 15, 2013

I LIKE PANCAKES TOO HOLY SHIT.

seriously what>?

Fourth class, or 5.15c I can't remember what the Bible said. Or what the 'Rado's proclaimed.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 15, 2013
At the BRC

Turd Ferguson! wrote:
Trad climbing starts at 12c. Everything less should be considered hiking.



John Marsella wrote:
They call it fell-walking somewhere...


Or doing 14ers.


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By Jason Todd
From Ranchester, WY
Apr 15, 2013
Moss

Once you project a line it is no longer trad. It is henceforth a gear line.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Apr 15, 2013

Got e-mail about this thread...but I didn't post it. Who is this pretender to my username?


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By Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Apr 15, 2013
nimbus at lions head

well well aren't you fuckheads a bunch of charmers.. i expect it from the poker community but didn't expect it here. Im obviously not looking for respect from any of you.

no one onshights 12c trad..

so thanks for all the wonderful replies ..

and try harder to move out of your parents basement.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Apr 15, 2013
Stabby

Will S. wrote:
no one onshights 12c trad..


Are you serious!?! You can't swing a dead cat in downtown Boulder without hitting someone who can.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 15, 2013
At the BRC

Mike Lane wrote:
Are you serious!?! You can't swing a dead cat in downtown Boulder without hitting someone who can.


It's hard to find a dead cat though, since most of them go promptly into tasty cuisine.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Apr 15, 2013
Stabby

Mark E Dixon wrote:
It's hard to find a dead cat though, since most of them go promptly into tasty cuisine.

Heh.
I like Pho.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 15, 2013
At the BRC

Will S. wrote:
Im obviously not looking for respect from any of you.


Can I be the first to not give you any respect?

And give Will S his name back.


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By Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Apr 15, 2013
nimbus at lions head

the no respect is mutual..

im keeping the name .. look at the pic and the location .. you might be able to figure out which Will S it is.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Apr 15, 2013

You can look back to'79- tony yaniro on grand illusion 13, trad... ray jardine on phoenix '77.. steve wunsch, supercrack12=
74


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By Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Apr 15, 2013
nimbus at lions head

and these climbers are the average trad climber eh? seems every vid i seen everyone has there gear mapped out and in order .. which means they might have been on it before.. maybe??


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 15, 2013
At the BRC

Will S. wrote:
look at the pic and the location .. you might be able to figure out which Will S it is.


Or I can just look for somebody with a sense of humor and something worthwhile to contribute. So far, not hard to tell the difference.

And oh, welcome to the forum!


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Apr 15, 2013

Will S. wrote:
no one onshights 12c trad..


Well, maybe nobody you know. I've got more than one friend/partner who onsights trad at that level. Not every signle pitch at those grades, but often enough that it's close to a 50/50 proposition.

In reply to your original question, I didn't/don't start projecting them until 5.12s, but unless you are seriously inconveniencing a lot of other climbers (like you're projecting the most popular 5.10 pitch at the crag) then who cares, do what you want/enjoy. I've seen people project 5.9. Whatever makes you happy.


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By Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Apr 15, 2013
nimbus at lions head

can anyone posting comments onsight 12c trad?


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 15, 2013
OTL

Will S. wrote:
at what level can you respectably project a trad line ? 5.11? 5.10? 10B? 10C? 10D?


Projecting isn't part of traditional lead climbing. Its a riddle - I get it! What do I win?


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By Midwest Will
From ann arbor, MI
Apr 15, 2013
nimbus at lions head

I love how precise you need to be on forums... I have been climbing for 15 years .. mostly trad .. i have never seen anyone onsight 5.12.. i assume i need to clarify here.. 5.12 trad.
when i post a question im not asking to the elite group of climber that you all think you are a part of. I doubt any of you climbed with or were friends with dean potter, sonny trotter, caldwell, ondra, sharma, honnold, jardine..

also .. the original question was at what level do you start project-ing? if we could have just answered with ratings, instead of dickhead responses, this would have been a lot easier for all of us.


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By Will Butler
From Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2013
ice park

I feel like most projecting starts at the higher end of 11. If you're in normal shape, you can get that strong in the gym after a season. The first trad route I ever really projected was 11c. If you can climb 11c sport, you can climb 11c trad.

The reason people are flaming you is because they think they're Buddhists and that climbing is about the experience. Not so. Another tip: Once you send, it's much more potent if your friends spray for you. That way others will also know how humble you are.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 15, 2013
At the BRC

Will S. wrote:
the original question was at what level do you start project-ing? if we could have just answered with ratings, instead of dickhead responses, this would have been a lot easier for all of us.


the original question was actually-

at what level can you respectably project a trad line ? 5.11? 5.10? 10B? 10C? 10D?

which I read as -

at what level can one respectably project a trad line ? 5.11? 5.10? 10B? 10C? 10D?

not-

at what level can you, internet readers whom I've never met, respectably project a trad line ? 5.11? 5.10? 10B? 10C? 10D?

Both are silly questions, not that there's really anything wrong with that, and the latter would probably have garnered just as many "dickhead responses."

But "this would have been a lot easier for all of us"? I laugh every time I read that. Thanks!


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Apr 15, 2013
Colonel Mustard

Mark E Dixon wrote:
But "this would have been a lot easier for all of us"? I laugh every time I read that. Thanks!


That is a gem of a line.

It's either a masterful little addition or the product of a truly naive internet cat herder. Funny, regardless.

Trollin' ain't easy, yo.


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Apr 15, 2013

Will S. wrote:
I have been climbing for 15 years .. mostly trad .. i have never seen anyone onsight 5.12.. i assume i need to clarify here.. 5.12 trad.

It just means you need to get out more, or have some stronger friends, that's all. I used to think Boulder is full wankers (well, it is mostly, but there are plenty strong climbers) until I started frequenting places strong climbers hangout. You started w/ a strong preconceived notion it should be 5.10-5.11, and people suggested 12c, but that doesn't sound like what you wanted to hear...tough. Truth is 12c trad (we are not talking about IC here) do get onsighted pretty frequently by non-elite climbers.

The 12c number is an inside joke: somebody once suggested sport climbing started around 12c, and projecting is considered sport climbing by the purists (doesn't matter if you place widgets).


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