Not sure if this route has gone free or not, hopefully if anybody has done it or knows of somebody who has done it, this info can be added.
This route is on the east side of the south face of Flathead Dome. There are two parallel right leaning cracks. This route tackles the right hand crack.
The wall undercuts at chest level, so the first move is a fair crank. Jam up the bottoming, leaning, and sometimes sliightly dirty crack. It is pretty difficult to conserve your strength on this part, which is a bummer because you really need it later. The crack gets thinner and more bottoming the higher you go, and your right foot has a hard time contributing. As the crack peters out, the locks get more technical, strenuous, and sequential. [Finally], the crack ends and you are forced to figure out the last several feet of climbing to get to the anchors. There is a way to do it, but it sure isn't easy.
My partner ripped a black Alien near the top and almost ripped the blue Alien below it. It was pretty much holding by two lobes. Pretty exciting.
Good selection of stoppers from RP to fingers, micro cams (Aliens, TCUs), set of cams to hand sized, #2 ballnut for top crux.
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 27, 2010
Has anyone else done this free? I'll buy the 12b rating.
Jul 28, 2010
I was looking through the blue Hubbel book the other day and saw this route and wondered if you had checked it out. When John and I did it, I TR'd it and didn't get the whole route clean. It took me quite a few tries to figure out a couple moves when the seam gets nasty. Did you layback it with your body leaning left?