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Progressive Slots 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 863
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 4, 2006
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Description 

Nice warmup or first lead. Unlike Circus Circus down the wall to the left, this is an actual 5.6 that beginning leaders will be comfortable on. Trickier start to easy big ledges above.


Location 

Climbs buttress where the wall juts out to the right of the main trail from the parking lot. Right of the ramp. Between harder climbs, so the 5.6 holds should be obvious.


Protection 

Bolts



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By Hillary Davis
Mar 21, 2007

Best "first lead" in the canyon.

By Randy Loveless
Oct 19, 2008

Nice, easy route with big holds! Really good lead for beginners!

By Michael Frank
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Either I am confused or some other folks are. "I am Gumby", which is to the left of "Progressive Slots", is definitely a 5.5...maybe a 5.6; its a great "first lead" with really big holds. But that's not the point. "Progressive Slots" is NOT a 5.6 climb. It is more like 5.7+ or even 5.8- climbing due a short but difficult start. This is not a good "first lead" and until you get 10 ft up there are not very good holds. After you get past the start it is a fun 5.6 to the top.

Let me know if I am way off base here.

By Peter Thomas
From: Prescott, AZ
Apr 21, 2013

Michael is right. The first move is pretty hard, and this would probably not be a very good first lead based on that. however, the route is still great. Noticed while climbing today that the left anchor bolt is a little wiggle. Still seems secure, but not as bomber as it used to be.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

agreed, this route would be a terrible first lead and is sandbagged as hell due to a very tricky start. perhaps some holds broke off?

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

It's been years since I've been out there. This was my son's first sport lead at age 12 and a good friend of mine's first lead as well. I felt it was 5.6ish back then, but perhaps some stuff came off.