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Howard just above the crux of the route on pitch 2...
Past the base of Grapevine (west) is an immense left facing arch. The first pitch of Eumenides climbs the left-most dihedral of this arch. The arch itself is composed of about 4-5 left-facing dihedrals, Progression climbs the second one from the right. This dihedral may also be identified by a beautiful white corner (only about 30' high) at the start of the second pitch (the crux).
Scramble up to the base of the dihedral.
P1: climb the interesting crack as it shoots up through featured green rock (lichens). This is a fun and well protected 5.8 pitch. The pitch ends at a spectacular stance at the base of the white corner.
P2: Lieback up the white corner to a flared hand jam, solve the crux and crank over a strange looking black flake. Although you can place a stopper every 2' in the white dihedral, the placements are flared and tricky and will pump you out. Continue on up a bombay chimney (5.8, 3.5" piece useful) with wild stemming moves to belay on a huge ledge.
At this point you are about 30' above the top of the second pitch of Grapevine, and you can continue on Grapevine. Or continue via ... [description supplied by Scott Kimball].
Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (i.e. fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto Grapevine, then belay on the far left edge to a fine, sitdown ledge.
Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a left-facing dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.
Pitch #5 Easy slabs.
Standard rack to 3.5".
On the 5.10a variation of pitch 4.
|By S. Kimball|
Jul 10, 2003
Indeed this 3 Star route does progress.
Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (i.e. fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto Grapevine, then belay on the far left edge ot a fine, sitdown ledge.
Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a Lf dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.
Pitch #5 Easy slabs.
|By Luke Clarke|
May 29, 2006
Add this to your 'must do' list for Sundance. That includes the third and fourth pitches. Climb them. Climb Grapevine on another day, if you haven't already.
If you like to lieback -- and who doesn't -- you'll like this. Sew up the crux with your small wireds and dig into some of Lumpy's best white granite with a crux 150 feet off the floor.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 28, 2008
The largest piece that you need for the crux pitch is a #3 Camalot. I brought a #4 Friend and didn't place it on the climb. The bombay chimney above the crux is fun and secure. It is also well protected with hexs and/or medium cams.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2009
Awesome route! Green then red C3 off the ledge in the crux dihedral were solid first two pieces.
Did the whole route in 4 pitches pretty easily with a 60. Think it would have been better to trend hard right on the last pitch instead of heading straight up as we had to downclimb some grassy slot to get back right for the walk-off anyhow.
|By Eric and Lucie|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2011
Did this route today again and REALLY enjoyed it.
I very highly recommend going left on P4: the obvious LF corner is around 5.9 with really fun moves and great pro. Getting over the little roof at the end of the corner is the first crux (~10a and well protected). Above the roof, protection becomes a bit iffy/tricky but I felt pretty safe (use every option you get). There are a couple of insecure slabby moves with pinched flares up here (9+ or so). I thought this was the best pitch on the route. Not flaky at all.
BTW we did Slim Pickens two weeks earlier, and I thought that crux was way harder than the 10c move on Progression. I am quite tall (6'4"), and I think that the low-hand lieback crux on SP is a short's people move. At least that's my excuse and I'll stick to it!