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By Ryan Palo
From Bend, oregon
Aug 2, 2011
Me

Training buffs, Im looking for a some critiques on my current program. Let me know what you think. Bare in mind Im fairly well trained, which is why I've shortened many of the periods.

If you're interested, my hangboarding routines are as follows:

I do a total of 21 sets.

3 Sets for each Grip
Set One = 7 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps.
2 Minute Rest
Set Two = 6 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps.
2 minute rest
Set Three = 5 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps.
3minute rest between the next grip.

I pick 7 Grips * 3 sets per grip = 21 sets.

I usually add 5 pounds per week, starting with 10 pounds. I use the same weight through the whole workout. Just easier that way. I like my rests between sets to be relaxed. I find frantically added and subtracting weight really takes away from the rest. If I can easily make it through the set with 35 pounds, I stop using that grip and move on to another.


The Ryan Palo Beastmaker Program
Duration: 6weeks

Frequency: 4-5 days/Wk - 4 one week 5 the next

Focus: 3 phases: HYP, Max Rec, PE. The program will follow traditional periodization methodology with elements of the “Block Approach”. This plan is to lightly train elements from the next phase while in the current phase. For example, full on dynos on the campus board will be excluded during the hypertrophy phase, opting for laddering instead. I am also including “complex training” (combination of HYP & Max Rec) in the hypertrophy phase.

I am also shortening my cycles considerably. I normally train for 8-9 weeks. Im taking a shorter approach to spend more time gaining fitness on the rock as my goals are more power endurance based this time around.

Additional Training: In addition to this climbing specific training I also lift. My program focuses on full body lifts (dead lifts, power cleans, etc). My goal here is not get swole, just to strength large muscle groups. My program is not nearly as progressive as my SSP.

Cardio: Im not a fanatic by any means, but I do think cardio plays a very important role in any training plan. My reasons are as follows: One - a raised heart rate works to promote blood flow and blood flow is paramount to healing. Two – no matter how good you are at controlling your breathing, you will climb poorly and most likely hold your breath while in the midst of a crux sequence. This will cause you to run an O2 deficit which you will need to recover in a resting position. Obviously, if you can lessen the time spent at rests, you will lessen the time spent on route.

By no means do I run/ride to the point of cannibalizing my muscles. As with most training, it’s hard to tell when enough is enough.

Support: To keep from falling apart I see a LMT once a week. I also spend a fair amount of time in the sauna/steam room/hot tub.

Phase 1 - Hypertrophy: 1.5-2.5 wks

Day 1: Heavy HYP training
21 set Hangboard for 1.5 weeks
14 set for 2 weeks/one campus set per hangboard
ARC session x 2. Start at 20 min each

Day 2: System Training
Lock offs, system grips, weighted system grips
ARC @ double duration of single set previous day

Day 3: Rest
- Cardio & vulnerable muscle group focus and core work

Phase 2 – Maximum Recruitment: 1.5-2wks

Day 1: Mixed Training
7 set Hangboard/ 2 set of campus
- Introduce dbble dynos/offsets & touch backs
Rest. Then 6-10 campus sets
System training unweighted
20-30 Move made up routes linking boulder problems (easy to medium)

Day 2: Campusing
Isometric extensions
15-20 sets of campus wall work
Deadpoints
Target Heart Rate intervals via treadwall. 1 – 2 sets 5 x 2min @ 85%
Note: I use a Garmin 610 heart rate monitor.

Day 3: Rest
- Cardio & vulnerable muscle group focus and core work

Phase 3: Power Endurance: 2+wks

Note: My goal is to simulate climbing roughly 1000 feet on a climbing day. I usually climb 9-10 pitches a day at Smith. Most of these routes are 35m.

Day 1: Hell
30 Min ARC Warm Up – Progressing to zone 4 HR. Ideal Zone 3 Plus
Huber Lock Off Training
Weighted System training
Tread wall pyramids
3 sets of 20-30 move linkage boulder problems
Cool down – gym traverse x3

Day 2: Heaven
30 min ARC target HR Zone 3
4x4s 8 sets
One arm isometrics
Huber lock off training
3 sets of intervals on the tread wall rungs (5 reps @ 2 min/rep 2min/rest)

Day 3: Rest
- Cardio & vulnerable muscle group focus and core work

Peak Phase – Go Crush Shiz: 3-4 wks

This phase is basically a continuation of the PE phase. Build fitness on the rock and redpoint and onsight to your hearts content. This phase is always followed by a resting period.

Many training experts would disagree with such a long period. Again this is my program and I know when to say enough.

My advice on training -
Do not let procrastination cascade into inaction.


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By Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Aug 2, 2011
Bunny pancake

Ryan Palo wrote:
Training buffs, Im looking for a some critiques on my current program. Let me know what you think. Bare in mind Im fairly well trained, which is why I've shortened many of the periods. If you're interested, my hangboarding routines are as follows: I do a total of 21 sets. 3 Sets for each Grip Set One = 7 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps. 2 Minute Rest Set Two = 6 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps. 2 minute rest Set Three = 5 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps. 3minute rest between the next grip. I pick 7 Grips * 3 sets per grip = 21 sets. I usually add 5 pounds per week, starting with 10 pounds. I use the same weight through the whole workout. Just easier that way. I like my rests between sets to be relaxed. I find frantically added and subtracting weight really takes away from the rest. If I can easily make it through the set with 35 pounds, I stop using that grip and move on to another. The Ryan Palo Beastmaker Program Duration: 6weeks Frequency: 4-5 days/Wk - 4 one week 5 the next Focus: 3 phases: HYP, Max Rec, PE. The program will follow traditional periodization methodology with elements of the “Block Approach”. This plan is to lightly train elements from the next phase while in the current phase. For example, full on dynos on the campus board will be excluded during the hypertrophy phase, opting for laddering instead. I am also including “complex training” (combination of HYP & Max Rec) in the hypertrophy phase. I am also shortening my cycles considerably. I normally train for 8-9 weeks. Im taking a shorter approach to spend more time gaining fitness on the rock as my goals are more power endurance based this time around. Additional Training: In addition to this climbing specific training I also lift. My program focuses on full body lifts (dead lifts, power cleans, etc). My goal here is not get swole, just to strength large muscle groups. My program is not nearly as progressive as my SSP. Cardio: Im not a fanatic by any means, but I do think cardio plays a very important role in any training plan. My reasons are as follows: One - a raised heart rate works to promote blood flow and blood flow is paramount to healing. Two – no matter how good you are at controlling your breathing, you will climb poorly and most likely hold your breath while in the midst of a crux sequence. This will cause you to run an O2 deficit which you will need to recover in a resting position. Obviously, if you can lessen the time spent at rests, you will lessen the time spent on route. By no means do I run/ride to the point of cannibalizing my muscles. As with most training, it’s hard to tell when enough is enough. Support: To keep from falling apart I see a LMT once a week. I also spend a fair amount of time in the sauna/steam room/hot tub. Phase 1 - Hypertrophy: 1.5-2.5 wks Day 1: Heavy HYP training 21 set Hangboard for 1.5 weeks 14 set for 2 weeks/one campus set per hangboard ARC session x 2. Start at 20 min each Day 2: System Training Lock offs, system grips, weighted system grips ARC @ double duration of single set previous day Day 3: Rest - Cardio & vulnerable muscle group focus and core work Phase 2 – Maximum Recruitment: 1.5-2wks Day 1: Mixed Training 7 set Hangboard/ 2 set of campus - Introduce dbble dynos/offsets & touch backs Rest. Then 6-10 campus sets System training unweighted 20-30 Move made up routes linking boulder problems (easy to medium) Day 2: Campusing Isometric extensions 15-20 sets of campus wall work Deadpoints Target Heart Rate intervals via treadwall. 1 – 2 sets 5 x 2min @ 85% Note: I use a Garmin 610 heart rate monitor. Day 3: Rest - Cardio & vulnerable muscle group focus and core work Phase 3: Power Endurance: 2+wks Note: My goal is to simulate climbing roughly 1000 feet on a climbing day. I usually climb 9-10 pitches a day at Smith. Most of these routes are 35m. Day 1: Hell 30 Min ARC Warm Up – Progressing to zone 4 HR. Ideal Zone 3 Plus Huber Lock Off Training Weighted System training Tread wall pyramids 3 sets of 20-30 move linkage boulder problems Cool down – gym traverse x3 Day 2: Heaven 30 min ARC target HR Zone 3 4x4s 8 sets One arm isometrics Huber lock off training 3 sets of intervals on the tread wall rungs (5 reps @ 2 min/rep 2min/rest) Day 3: Rest - Cardio & vulnerable muscle group focus and core work Peak Phase – Go Crush Shiz: 3-4 wks This phase is basically a continuation of the PE phase. Build fitness on the rock and redpoint and onsight to your hearts content. This phase is always followed by a resting period. Many training experts would disagree with such a long period. Again this is my program and I know when to say enough. My advice on training - Do not let procrastination cascade into inaction.


I have been trying to add some Postactivation Potentiation (PAP) or complex training to my workout as well. I noticed you mentioned complex training but I don't see that anywhere in your work out below.

How is that progressing for you? Any gains? I would imagine complex training would be hangboard followed by campus of some sort


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By Ryan Palo
From Bend, oregon
Aug 3, 2011
Me

I have listed the complex approach. It's under day 1 of my max rec phase. I've yet to actually do this. Just started my hangbaording phase last week.


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By Gung-ho Gumby
Aug 4, 2011

Did I miss something or do you not climb outside until phase 4? Or are days 1 and 2 in the gym and you get outside on weekends? What do you do outside during each phase? I'm interested and would like to know, thanks.


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By James Arnold
From Chattanooga
Aug 4, 2011
Chew toyed

With 11.7k on 8a, a couple of 8cs and a baker's dozen 14as all over sent in the last year "Livin the Dream", whatever you are doing appears to be working....maybe we should learn something from your beast maker....

"Bare in mind Im fairly well trained"

Seams like it!


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By Ryan Palo
From Bend, oregon
Aug 4, 2011
Me

No not really, I dont climb outside during my heavy training phase. It just throws things off. Last thing you want is an outside day messing up your training day. It's usually too hot during the summer anyway. I do mix it up a bit and do some longer things. Usually much easier than my usual day at the crag. I dont think I could manage much more. My training days usually leave my hands pretty beat up.

Outside of that, I run, cycle, and go on recon missions to keep the psyche alive.

Gung Ho- Do you have your own plan?


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By James Arnold
From Chattanooga
Aug 4, 2011
Chew toyed

Do you do any plyometrics aside from campusing?

Also curious what SSP and Huber Lockoff Training comprises of...

If you haven't seen this, you might be interested in the Kill Bill

www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=232780


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By low.key.og
Aug 4, 2011

Ryan-

Your plan looks good. Similar to something I did last Winter. I feel like it gave me a really solid base and I was able to climb at a high level a few months after that initial 4 week superhuman period...

What kind of training did you do to prepare for Lulu?? I started working it this past season and am just not able to get through that tipped out (for me) bit on the top on my redpoint burns...I am probably not going to be able to send this year but am hoping to train hard this winter and have it be one of my main spring goals...that is, unless I get sidetracked this fall..

Hope your cycle goes well...what are your goals this fall?


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By Ryan Palo
From Bend, oregon
Aug 5, 2011
Me

For Lulu, it took me a couple goes to link to that last rest at the last bolt. Then I fell there a bunch of times. I HATED that section. So much so that I wont try Zulu (that and the Zulu crux is downright unfriendly). It was mostly a power endurance/beta issue. I ended up settling for deadpointing the crimp and crossing under to match it. I think there's a video out there somewhere.

To be honest, what made the difference was just overpowering the move. I took some time from the route and I was doing laps on Living in Fear for fitness.

I hear ya on getting side tracked in Rifle. I had to keep a running list of the projects I had that summer. Good luck with Lulu. Just stick with it!

This fall Im hoping to finish the last of the routes in the aggro gully. There's one project left and one mega link up. Im also looking another project on the monkey face.

R


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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Aug 8, 2011
Belay

Sounds like a very well thought-out plan. My "training" has never been particularly regimented, and I'd love to use this as a framework to improve my redpoint level.

Thanks for the writeup!


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By S.Stelli
From Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 1, 2011

Ryan - you are super-human, and super for sharing your routine. Thanks!

I was wondering if you might detail your system training that you mention a little bit more for those of us who aren't too familiar with the subject?


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Sep 1, 2011

I don't know why I missed this thread the first time around. That looks like a pretty thorough routine. I feel like it would be too much volume for me, but you never know until you try I guess. It also seems like the phases are too short for my liking, but it's certainly working for you.

For me, I try to sustain each phase as long as I'm still making gains. So for example, I'm usually still making pretty good progress with hangboarding for 5-6 weeks, after that I'm plateauing, so I would try to switch to the next phase right before the plateau. Do you feel like you're not progressing anymore after the 2.5 weeks?

How much time do you spend a day training? I always feel like I'm not spending enough time training (because I generally don't have more time to give), so I try to focus on the most critical exercises to get the most bang for the buck.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 1, 2011

Wow! That seems like a tremendous amount of volume, especially in the strength/recruitment areas.

Been reading some studies lately that indicate for strength gains the added benefit beyond a single work set (provided that set is heavy enough) isn't very much and that there is no added benefit beyond about 3 sets. They seem to indicate that you essentially just rack up more inflammation/tissue damage/CNS fatigue/glycogen depletion from the extra sets and that if you can do that many you're probably not using enough weight.

Of course the AE aspect is much different.


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Sep 2, 2011

Will S wrote:
Been reading some studies lately that indicate for strength gains the added benefit beyond a single work set (provided that set is heavy enough) isn't very much and that there is no added benefit beyond about 3 sets. They seem to indicate that you essentially just rack up more inflammation/tissue damage/CNS fatigue/glycogen depletion from the extra sets and that if you can do that many you're probably not using enough .


I suspect that research assumes you've done a thorough warm up before the one set, and imo, what constitutes a warmup can vary. For me, I feel like I ned a whole set to be "warm".


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By Ryan Palo
From Bend, oregon
Sep 3, 2011
Me

Mike, I always feel guilty for not spending enough time training. I've been splitting my sessions: SST in the morning & weights/cardio in the evenings. For HYP including warm ups, it would generally take 1:45 min. Max Rec was somewhere around 1:30 with warm up and cool down. PE is usually 2 hrs+.

I did a few things differently this time. I wanted to experiement with a few things. First I wanted to toy around with this one rep max idea championed by Doyle and Ramsey. So I cut my HYP sets to 14 and included 7 one rep max sets. I was blown away with the results there. I saw a substantial increase in the amount of weight I could use. I also started toying with this whole PAP/Complex training protocol. The verdict still out on that one, as Im still in a blended max rec/PAP phase.

I agree with you on the timing. I normally adhere to a similar cycle length. I wanted to test a few of these concepts before this winter.

I've also spent a fair amount of time working lock-offs. My objective this time around demands some pretty big tugs. So I've been doing a lot of off set pull ups using one static point and the other on a rock ring. Fortunately, this has finally payed off and I've been able to make the long reaches.

I wasnt really impressed with the "gains" from systems training. Seemed like a bastardized form of iso-pullups.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 3, 2011

Mike Anderson wrote:
I suspect that research assumes you've done a thorough warm up before the one set, and imo, what constitutes a warmup can vary. For me, I feel like I ned a whole set to be "warm".


Yes, they included (in at least 2 of the studies anyway) a warmup set at 50% of the work-set weight (hence the terminology of a "work set").

I'm with you, on heavy work I need a good deal of warmup. Hangboarding I do a progessive warmup, not of "regular" sets of 5 reps, but of single 10s reps increasing the weight each time (and this after about 15min of ARC style easy climbing). Using a full pad edge for each warmup set, I'll start with body weight, 10s. Rest a couple minutes, +25, rest 2, +45, rest 2, +65 rest 4, then start the actual work sets. But I'm still doing 5-7 sets, haven't experimented with the 1-3 work sets, I want more convincing beyond 3-4 studies.

It's an interesting concept to me, mainly because it runs counter to everything I grew up "knowing" about training. The natural question is at what point have you sufficiently stimulated a training/compensation effect and moved into just depleting glycogen and accumulating inflammation and tissue damage. For us aging folks (late 30s here), it's a pretty important question since recovery has slowed pretty dramatically from being a 22yr old.


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Sep 5, 2011

Will S wrote:
The natural question is at what point have you sufficiently stimulated a training/compensation effect and moved into just depleting glycogen and accumulating inflammation and tissue damage. For us aging folks (late 30s here), it's a pretty important question since recovery has slowed pretty dramatically from being a 22yr old.


That's definitely a worthwhile question to ask, for the reasons you give as well as just to save us all time.


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 6, 2011

Ryan Palo wrote:
If you're interested, my hangboarding routines are as follows: I do a total of 21 sets. 3 Sets for each Grip Set One = 7 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps. 2 Minute Rest Set Two = 6 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps. 2 minute rest Set Three = 5 sec hang 3 sec rest x 7 reps. 3minute rest between the next grip. I pick 7 Grips * 3 sets per grip = 21 sets.


In planning my next training cycle (first to use a hangboard instead of a system wall) I came across this link from Dave McCleod.
He seems to have some pretty good arguments for trying really hard, then resting a lot.


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By Gung-ho Gumby
Nov 7, 2011

grayhghost wrote:
In planning my next training cycle (first to use a hangboard instead of a system wall) I came across this link from Dave McCleod. He seems to have some pretty good arguments for trying really hard, then resting a lot.


I will admit I don't fully understand the physiology behind McLeod's version of gaining "strength" for climbing by a single super-hard hang followed by complete recovery, but doesn't it go against the principle of specificity? He mentions it builds strength via recruitment, but I thought that campusing did the same thing. It just seems like the routine of 7 sec on, 3 sec off (assuming you go to failure) would apply better to gaining maximum strength for route climbing. Maybe McLeod's hangboard protocol would be of more benefit for bouldering? Will the strength gained from the 1 rep max workout transfer over to the next cycle (campus) better, and more importantly, onto the rock? It would be interesting to hear from someone who has tried both ways.


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 9, 2011

I think you want to tailor the whole periodized plan to be specific, not the individual exercises. This way you get the most out of each phase. You get the strongest from hang boarding, the fastest from campus boarding and the fittest from 4x4ing. If you tailor each one to power endurance you end up shortchanging yourself by not getting the most out of each exercise. As McCleod says, constant anaerobic training (short rest durations) end up making us weaker, even though we need it to send routes.
You can tweak your anaerobic phase to meet whatever goals you want. Short routes? Do 3x4s. Long routes? Do 8x8s.


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