|Long Canyon North
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About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail syetem on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but sice the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.
A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few hundred feel below the wall, tipping at the edge of a small rotton cliff band below the climbing buttress. This rock is a few hundred meters below the base of Program Director.
Program director can be identified as a clean, solid splitter with a slight offset, starting 30' up a 'mound' in a left-facing corner, adn quickly opening up to a pleasant, solid crack-climb. The line zig-zags a little and the right side is offset (sticks out) about 6-10 inches in mmost places. Just as it gets endurm, a small jog in the crack seems to appear and give you a good resting foothold.
Great line, easier with bigger hands, will probably feel closer to 10+ for small hands. I had to fist-jam some of the moves. Tape or grind!
Rap from the anchor up top with two 60M ropes! No middle anchor is there!
A set of TCU's down to 1", with 2 cams each up to 2.5", then perhaps 4 #3's and 6 or more #3.5's. That is to lead it in a single pitch. If you like your cams closer than 10' to each other, take more 2.5-3.5" cams. two 60M ropes are required to descend (no middle anchor)
|By Brian Sinicki|
May 31, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I just did this route last weekend and it was FANTASTIC. It doesn't appear to get too much traffic. I cleaned a crap-load of crispy webbing off the less than perfect anchors. I would highly recommend at least one shiny new bolt to back up the piton and loose hanger from hell if you are going to be in the area on a public service mission. (That is if I don't get to it first...)
If you have 60m lines, you can belay in comfort from the ledges below the route without scrambling up too far.
If it weren't for the crap rock at the bottom and the belay-station death rocks hiding in the pod 30 feet up, it would have gotten 3 stars instead of two. Taken by itself, the splitter above all that nonsense was definitely 3 stars.
To my small hands and feet this route felt a bit more than 5.10 in places. "They" call Supercrack a 5.10 and I found this route to be more difficult and more sustained.
|By Josh Gross|
Oct 17, 2008
A friend mentioned that below the splitter there is a massive fracture of a flake in the white band of rock, please be aware of this!
From: Moab, UT
Dec 21, 2008
Yes, there is definitely a death block directly in line of the climb that must be cleaned... right below the splitter you really have to jam behind a fractured block that moves with light pressure. Route must be cleaned prior to climbing. Someone with more balls than me should do this so that we can all enjoy what looks like an awesome route!!!
Dec 22, 2008
it absolutely must! it absolutely must!!
From: moab, ut
Jan 15, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
did this earlier last year, had heard the hype and it definatly lived up to its name. pure joyful awesomeness
|By John Braun|
From: Hendersonville, NC
Dec 14, 2011
Don't let the rumblings of loose rock scare you. There's just a hollow-sounding flake and a loose block, both are easy to avoid. The anchor (if I remember correctly) was made of 2 modern bolts and an ancient star drive. It was solid. This climb is awesome!