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 ADVANCED
h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber Waves of Pain T 
Andrew T 
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 
Annie Oh! T 
Arrow T 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 
CCK Direct T 
Cold Turkeys T 
Diana T 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 
Erect Direction T 
Face to Face T 
Feast of Fools T 
Hans' Puss T 
Hawkeye T 
Jim's Gem T 
Keep on Struttin' T 
Last Will Be First, The T 
Limelight T 
Lost and Found T 
Man's Quest for Flight T 
Moby Dick T 
Modern Times T 
Moonlight T 
No Glow T 
Nurse's Aid T 
Proctor Silex T 
Proctoscope T 
Red Pillar T 
Silhouette T 
Smilin' the Hard Way T 
Steep Hikin' T 
Step Lively T 
Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Proctoscope 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 195'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P1: J. McCarthy and R. Goldstone 1969 Complete: R. Goldstone, D. DuMais, R. Schrag 1969
Page Views: 1,343
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Nic on Proctoscope

Description 

Great face climbing and surprisingly pumpy. A must do!

P1- Climb the wide crack to the ledge. Step right and climb the thin fault and face above to the small roof utilizing small, rounded face holds. Once here, go left to the Feast of Fools bolt anchors. Most rap here.

P2- Climb up straight up to the obvious overhang and pull it. Then head up to the next, step left and up to the GT. Rap at Arrow, which is to climbers' left.

Location 

About 25 feet downhill and right of the huge Hans' Puss corner at a obvious 6" wide crack.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2", small cams helpful.


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By BTodd
May 26, 2008

the thin fault was scary, I wish I could have put more gear in. However, its a great climb. I've seen people use this to top rope the 5.10 to the left that looks like fun...just put a directional in.
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Nice exposed moves on it, worth doing.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 13, 2009

I seconded this climb and found it rather reasonable. As a leader, I am sure it give some pause for thought on the face below the little roof. Fun climb.
By Pawel
From: NJ
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Beautiful, beautiful climb! Only wish the face/crack crux section were longer! Good gear (C3 and small cams). On top of that you have an unprotected offwidth start (you can avoid making it offwidth but without big gear it's still unprotected for the first 10-15ft) and classic gunks horizontals on vertical rock to finish.

PS: had heard of a fixed nut. As of 9/14 only fixed gear is a good piton at the start of the crux.
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 29, 2014

I've seen fixed nuts come & go in that small crack - that should be a warning to anyone leading it.