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Black Magic
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Problem Child 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Pederson
Page Views: 1,131
Submitted By: Neal Carroll on Oct 12, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts back downhill (East) of the Cave proper. I believe it is the farthest left route on the wall...though things have become pretty gridded out (sigh) in this section of the cliff.Pass a bolt or two and make a cool span into a left facing corner under a roof, then make a difficult move to establish yourself above the roof. Good and restful pockets leads to a hard finish. Bouldery and on good, black rock, this route climbs like it belongs at the Hideaway...and probably is a touch soft for the grade, which is rare for any of Jeff's route.

A do not miss route for AF.

Protection 

6 bolts.


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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

best route at black magic area
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I dont think I agree that it is soft for the grade. Seemed pretty on par with other 12c's that I have climbed. This is a very good climb... one of the best I have done in AF.
By DCSwish23
From: Lander, WY
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I agree this is a super fun climb and my favorite in AF so far, but I'd say it's a bit soft, especially for AF (I also think most things in AF seem pretty hard so all the more reason why this one felt soft comparatively). Either way, it's SO MUCH FUN!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

A few bolts on this route, and the anchors, could be re-located to produce a better line. They are old SMC's anyways, so bring on the upgrade! Does anyone even climb this direct up the corner feature at the bottom? Seems everyone follows the lieback crack up and quite a bit left of the bolt line, and then cuts right into the corner at the third bolt...? Even with the detour, 12c felt right to me, and the crux was up higher at the second to last bolt.
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 10, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Agreed brad. We started left and cut over too- super fun movement. The crux for us was higher too as you said and it felt legit at 12c.