|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Feb 7, 2010
I'd call this 5.3, like the guidebook does. Calling it V-anything is sort of deceptive. It's much easier than your average V0. Lots of fun, tho!
An interesting alternative is to skip the lieback and turn around where the climber in the picture is and chimney up the crack to the top. You can treat it as a squeeze chimney or use small face holds with your left foot and make a short off-width excursion out of it.
Even more fun is to climb the face on left side of the right boulder (as in "Problem A"), step out left onto the "ledge" right by the climber's foot in the beta photo, reach around to the arete and plant yourself in the chimney, then proceed as described above. I did this today and it was so much fun I did it twice more. Altogether, probably not harder than 5.7 or 8