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California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Land of the Giants
Probation Violation
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 16
votes
Routes in Land of the Giants
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Beanstalk, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Birdhouse in your Soul (upper pitch) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Drillin' Time Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Enraged Pixie S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Goat Rodeo (upper pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goliath S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Megatron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Optimus Prime S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Probation Violation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wee Wiggly Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wiggly S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Fred Berman, Marty Lewis, 4/1993, top down |
| Page Views: | 1,079 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Alec Ferguson on Jan 13, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Really cool long pitch up a stunning face. Balancy and precise, but steep enough to make you work for it. Beautiful position over a bend in the Owen's River.
Location
Just left of the left side of the Eldorado Roof. About 10 meters right of the ladder that bypasses the ledge with Dilithium Crystal. Starts up a shallow corner. Shares the first bolt with Wiggly.
Protection
16 bolts, 2 anchor bolts.
The Marty Lewis guidebook, 11th edition lists this route as 37.5 meter lower off. I managed to lower off with a 70 meter rope, but my buddy had to let the end slip through the Grigri! Some brands cut their ropes longer than 70 meters -- mine is Mammut. Anyways, tie a knot!
If you can't reach the ground, you can lower to the anchors of Enraged Pixie. It might be hard to get your remaining quickdraws on lower out, however.
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