|570 page views|
Ladd getting shut down successfully after being se...
Climb the easy flake in the middle of the wall to the slopers above, pull a couple of very hard moves on bad slopers to gain the anchors of this climb.
When I got on this route it was the Summer of 05 and I was visiting my girlfriend (now finacee) in the NRG where she was guiding for the summer. We were finishing up at the Lake and I wanted to get on something challenging but not impossible so I asked where there wa a fun short overhanging 5.11, she said there where some on the DC Memorial Boulder. We headed over and she thought that the one in the center of the face with the very moderate looking flake for a start was an 11. I said OK and proceded to climb my up this climb until about 2/3 hieght I run smack into a seriously hard move off a sloper that to this day I can't move off of. We tried and tried the move off the sloper over and over but we couldn't pull off the sloper at all, truly a humbling experience to have on a climb that I though "wouldn't be that hard". Once I got down to the ground a climber and fellow guide came along named Chad Umbel and told us it was a 5.13 and "not a good one", the stare I gave Nuria was priceless, or so I'm told. I've tried the route since and I still can't do the move, maybe someday...
Middle of wall, starts at right facing easy overhanging corner.
4 bolts to anchors