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Brownstone Wall
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Nightcrawler, The T,S 
Peanut Brittle T 
Pro Choice T 
Pro Life T 
Requiem for a Tadpole T 
Sand Castle T 
Sweet Thin T,S 
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Time's Up T 

Pro Choice 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,291
Submitted By: Boneware on Nov 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Looking up pitch 3.

Description 

Pro Choice is a great line which starts on the right side of the left half of Brown Stone Wall. The crux is a short section on the 4th pitch protected by a bolt.

The three couple pitches run up cool plated rock.

The first pitch is short and easy, and climbs the first pitch of High Anxiety, stopping at a nice ledge before the webbing rainbow that is the first belay of High A.

The second pitch goes up to a small overhang (2 bolts) then heads up the face above on cool dark plated rock, first head a little right, then back left up a steep section with a cool little finger crack in it, to a bolted belay on a small ledge. A little bit of loose rock on this and the next pitch but will clean up nicely with a little more traffic. (5.10)

Third Pitch: Head more or less straight up, the rock continues to improve the higher you get, near the top you could wish for any better. Keep going till you come to a awesome ledge with anchors . (5.9)

Forth Pitch: The business, make some moves up and left (good yellow alien placement) into a swoop/crescent, there is a single bolt here. The rock here is as good as it gets in the Red Rock, to the left is quite possibly the slickest sandstone i have ever seen, it is absolutely beautiful. I won't give away the beta here, there are several ways to get on through, none are easy, and finesse rather than power will be your best ally. Once past the bolt, move into a really cool left facing corner with a great crack in the back (5.8) to the anchors. (5.11)


Location 

Head up to the Brownstone wall, where you park is up to you, the hike in is pretty self explanatory. Once there head for the large gully which divides the wall in two. Just to the left side of this gully you will find Pro Choice. You can see the bolts on the second pitch from the ground.


Protection 

Rack single set to #2 camalot, doubles of small stuff to #.5 camalot. Double set of nuts/wires especially brassies or the such.

I would say most of the climbing rather than the second half of the last pitch could be done on nuts.

There are bolted anchors at the top of every pitch except the first one.

Rap with 2 60 M ropes, from the top of the second pitch you can make it to the ground in one 60 meter double rope rappel.



Photos of Pro Choice Slideshow Add Photo
The start of pitch 2.
The start of pitch 2.
The route climbs up the center of the photo.
The route climbs up the center of the photo.
High up on pitch 2.
High up on pitch 2.
Start of pitch 4.
Start of pitch 4.
Comments on Pro Choice Add Comment
Show which comments
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Mar 21, 2011

This route is worth doing once. There is loose & hollow rock on the first 3 pitches. The final 11a pitch is a one move wonder, although the crux is fun on good rock.
I recommend also doing the Pro Life variation to the last pitch. It is much higher quality.

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought this route was great. It climbs like a harder version of Armatron. The crux is way harder/trickier than the rest of the route.

With more traffic, this thing will clean up nicely, although I thought the rock was pretty good for the most part.

Watch the pull on the rappel from the top of pitch 4. We got our rope hopelessly stuck in the crack and had to relead the pitch.

By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Oct 30, 2013

This was an enjoyable route on mostly good rock(still a few hollow plates here and there but using your sandstone smarts and tapping before pulling will keep you out of trouble).

The second pitch didn't seem to have any moves that felt .10b as the guidebook suggests. We thought 5.9?

The crux is a fun, balancy sequence. I was glad to have shade for this particular section--I hate to think of how it would feel making those moves if the sun were beating down on that slick varnish. Looks like you can plug in a solid #1 cam after the crux before pulling into the corner.

We rapped to the top of P3, moved right to the anchor on the ledge with the rap rings, double rope rappel from here past the P2 anchors to the chains visible beside vegetated ledge below. Single 60m rope rap from here takes you back to your packs. (The anchor at P2 only had a quicklink on one bolt.)