Private Idaho 5.9
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Craig Martin on Jun 20, 2004 |
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About to pull the Crux.
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Description Located on the back side of Bath Rock, just left of Colossus.
Classic Crack Climbing! Climb the obvious crack in the large open book. Move Left at the crux 70' up to keep it 5.9. Straight up might be slightly harder.
Edit: Apparently I got this wrong, don't go left or you will be cheating. Although going left is a lot of fun.
Protection Standard City of Rocks Rack. Nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot.
the lower section; great holds to the ri...
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Taking a fall stroll on Private Idaho
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BETA PHOTO: Start to Private Idaho.
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BETA PHOTO: Crux slot on Private Idaho.
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BETA PHOTO: Intermediate section of Private Idaho.
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private idaho 5.9 ***
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Crack/corner system to climber's right is Private ...
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| Comments on Private Idaho |
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 26, 2004
| straight up is the 5.9 crux... left would be easier... |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 27, 2005
rating: 5.9
| I agree. Straight up is 5.9. Going to the left makes the route a 5.8**. |
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.9
| Fun lead for a reacquaintance of the City. Good gear, and good climbing. A #2 Camalot protects the straight up version perfectly. Straight-up may seem harder than 5.9 due to the wideness of the crack, but all wide cracks seem harder than they are, unless that is your thing. To me the wide version was too short to even climb like a wide crack. One secure hand jam way high, and then swing your legs high and you are there. Exposed feeling, but all there. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.9
| Great route! Lower section takes great sm-med nuts. Bring some larger cams 3-4" for the larger pods that are coming. 2.5" cam will protect direct slot finish which is a bit of a grunt for it's less than 2 feet. Chain Anchors. |
By Brice W
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.9
| This route looks steep but all the great stems make it easier than it looks. Great fun and good gear. |
By Fat Paul
From: nj
Jun 12, 2009
| Route protects well with nuts. I concur that crux move out left is easier than the rated 5.9. |
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.9
| This route gets my vote for best 5.9 trad route at the city. Cool stemming with a jam crux! Ditto previous comments, and this route protects really well. |
By Drederek
Sep 25, 2009
rating: 5.9
| More face than crack, still a great pitch. |
By Ken Gibby
From: Saratoga Springs, UT
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.9
| More face than crack but you get to use a whole host of moves which makes it very fun. The taller you are the easier the crux. Left is certaily easier. |
By wasatch-mtn-man
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.9
| Protects very well. I actually used a #4 up top in the larger portion of the crack. Maybe I'm just weak but that direct slot was a bit of a grunt. Glad I had some nice pieces in before the crux. 50/50 nuts/cams. Great route! |
By steve lindsay
Mar 25, 2012
| Great spots for larger sized nuts right off the deck. Super fun route. |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.9
| As seems to be the case with certain City routes, PI appeared to be dubious in stand-out quality when viewed from the ground. But my partner assured me it was awesome. And it was! The wide crux protects well with nothing larger than a 0.4 and a #2, as others have stated.
I might have placed a #3 somewhere on this route (can't remember), but you really shouldn't need a 4. |
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