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Bath Rock - West
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Whip, The S 

Private Idaho 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,680
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Jun 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (196)
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About to pull the Crux.

Description 

Located on the back side of Bath Rock, just left of Colossus.
Classic Crack Climbing! Climb the obvious crack in the large open book. Move Left at the crux 70' up to keep it 5.9. Straight up might be slightly harder.

Edit: Apparently I got this wrong, don't go left or you will be cheating. Although going left is a lot of fun.

Protection 

Standard City of Rocks Rack. Nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot.


Photos of Private Idaho Slideshow Add Photo
the lower section; great holds to the right for co...
the lower section; great holds to the right for co...
private idaho 5.9 ***
private idaho 5.9 ***
Jim Donini just doin' his thing!
Jim Donini just doin' his thing!
Taking a fall stroll on Private Idaho
Taking a fall stroll on Private Idaho
Intermediate section of Private Idaho.
BETA PHOTO: Intermediate section of Private Idaho.
Start to Private Idaho.
BETA PHOTO: Start to Private Idaho.
Crack/corner system to climber's right is Private ...
Crack/corner system to climber's right is Private ...
Crux slot on Private Idaho.
BETA PHOTO: Crux slot on Private Idaho.
Hack Attack in full forward force. Sturgis and Jor...
Hack Attack in full forward force. Sturgis and Jor...

Comments on Private Idaho Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 29, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 26, 2004

straight up is the 5.9 crux... left would be easier...
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 27, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree. Straight up is 5.9. Going to the left makes the route a 5.8**.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun lead for a reacquaintance of the City. Good gear, and good climbing. A #2 Camalot protects the straight up version perfectly. Straight-up may seem harder than 5.9 due to the wideness of the crack, but all wide cracks seem harder than they are, unless that is your thing. To me the wide version was too short to even climb like a wide crack. One secure hand jam way high, and then swing your legs high and you are there. Exposed feeling, but all there.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route! Lower section takes great sm-med nuts. Bring some larger cams 3-4" for the larger pods that are coming. 2.5" cam will protect direct slot finish which is a bit of a grunt for it's less than 2 feet. Chain Anchors.
By Brice W
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route looks steep but all the great stems make it easier than it looks. Great fun and good gear.
By Fat Paul
From: Central, NJ
Jun 12, 2009

Route protects well with nuts. I concur that crux move out left is easier than the rated 5.9.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route gets my vote for best 5.9 trad route at the city. Cool stemming with a jam crux! Ditto previous comments, and this route protects really well.
By Drederek
Sep 25, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

More face than crack, still a great pitch.
By Ken Gibby
From: Saratoga Springs, UT
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

More face than crack but you get to use a whole host of moves which makes it very fun. The taller you are the easier the crux. Left is certaily easier.
By wasatch-mtn-man
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Protects very well. I actually used a #4 up top in the larger portion of the crack. Maybe I'm just weak but that direct slot was a bit of a grunt. Glad I had some nice pieces in before the crux. 50/50 nuts/cams. Great route!
By steve lindsay
Mar 25, 2012

Great spots for larger sized nuts right off the deck. Super fun route.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As seems to be the case with certain City routes, PI appeared to be dubious in stand-out quality when viewed from the ground. But my partner assured me it was awesome. And it was! The wide crux protects well with nothing larger than a #2, as others have stated.

I might have placed a #3 somewhere on this route (can't remember), but you really shouldn't need a 4.
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Jun 27, 2013

I'm gonna go against the grain here and say "meh." It looks like a lot more fun than it is. Overall mediocre at best, especially compared to its neighbors Rollercoaster and Colossus, which are way better.
By TNORM
Sep 29, 2013

Great route, It's all there. The crux is heady no matter which way you go.