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 ADVANCED
The Millstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Tie Die S 
Yuppie Love S 

Private Hell 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Bret Ruckman 1990
Page Views: 1,369
Submitted By: David Shiembob on Jul 9, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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My favorite picture, Naomi on the FA on TR of the ...

Description 

Fun traversing line. Third fully bolted line on Millstone (counting from the bottom). The crux is around the first bolt. Edgy face climbing that ends by wrapping around a corner to the anchors, which feels pretty exposed. Fun, and the follower can take some big swings if they pop soon after unclipping a bolt.

Protection 

4 bolts to chain anchors


Photos of Private Hell Slideshow Add Photo
Me climbing
Me climbing
Private Hell and Tie Die w/o lines.
BETA PHOTO: Private Hell and Tie Die w/o lines.
Making that 3rd clip.
Making that 3rd clip.
Naomi on TR, Tyson belaying.
Naomi on TR, Tyson belaying.
1) Private Hell <br />2) Tie Die
BETA PHOTO: 1) Private Hell
2) Tie Die
Me on lead.
Me on lead.
The 2nd clip on this route is tenuous and scary.
The 2nd clip on this route is tenuous and scary.
Naomi getting some decent air time!!
Naomi getting some decent air time!!
Me on lead.
Me on lead.
Almost to the top!
Almost to the top!

Comments on Private Hell Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Jun 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very tricky sequence down low (between bolts 1 and 2), and my group all felt this was harder than Tie Die. 5.10c was our consensus. Once you reach the 2nd bolt, it eases up drastically, until the last bolt (kind of mantly move), and then a heady finish to the anchors as your hands get all slopey. Enjoy
By Jake K.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 19, 2007

I also think this route is more challenging than the tie die route. Especially clipping the chains.... You have to work your way around the corner onto all slopers. Unless you are super tall! Once you have it on tope rope, try the roof between the two climbs, it starts out easy, then when you get to the edge of the roof, its a looong reach to a small hold, then its over. Just be careful you dont pull out the loose big block underneath the overhang!!
By Alec
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Probably more hazardous for the follower than the leader, as a fall at the crux after unclipping the first bolt can be bad. My girlfriend took a good swing at this section and sprained her ankle pretty badly -- made for an unpleasant journey back out to the car.