Prison Sex 

I was the one that told WagBag this climb was a pile of garbage, (and he belayed me on it as I pulled stuff off and sand rained down). When I tried it (July 11), it was the worst climb I got on in Ten Sleep, very dirty and crumbly. I remember breaking off plenty of holds. I also remember plenty of drilled pockets, maybe I'm wrong and they only look like drilled pockets, but I'm pretty conservative about what I call drilled. My notes from that climb are: "Awful, one of the worst climbs I have ever been on, dirty, crumbly, and a lot of drilled pockets".

Sounds like you guys weren't doing the route you thought you were. Good thing he/you are adding routes to the database...

At least according to Huey's guidebook this was 100% the route I was on, Also the grade and description match right up. Why the difference in dirtyness and choss, no idea, maybe it's cleaned up in the last 1.5 years. As far as the drilled pockets go, I'm pretty sure they are drilled, but aren't going to drive up to Wyoming any time soon to prove my point.

I climbed PS and DC on the same day and I thought the quality of the two routes were very similar, being that they are 10 feet apart on the same wall. I have been on both routes in the past but was never able to redpoint them. I think DC gets more traffic and is perhaps a bit cleaner, though both routes go through the peanut buttery stuff up high which IS pretty sandy. I was trying to give kudos to two old MWendling routes that are actually pretty good, but may have had some heavy handed tinkering in their development. There is one obvious drilled or enhanced pocket on PS that I did not need or use, I'm not quite sure why it is there. Every other hold on the route seemed to be au natural, except for the occasional edge dulling. Also, nothing broke off on any of the three trips up the thing that it took me to send it, so my opinion was favorable. Its a shame your experience was so different.