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Prison Sex 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Wendling
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on Aug 18, 2012

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Description 

Technical slab climbing will keep you on your toes (literally) for the first four clips. The route kicks back and requires a dyno or lunge move on steeper rock to a good pocket. The crux is the rightward sequence that follows on nasty crimps and several more tough reaches. From the jugs it steepens more but is cruiser to the top. It should be noted that this route has no 'drilled' anything as someone alluded to in the Dickins Cider Description. This route has fantastic movement, it is quite clean and very solid for the grade.

Location 

Right of Mater Hater, left of Dickins Cider

Protection 

11 clips


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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 16, 2012

I was the one that told WagBag this climb was a pile of garbage, (and he belayed me on it as I pulled stuff off and sand rained down). When I tried it (July 11), it was the worst climb I got on in Ten Sleep, very dirty and crumbly. I remember breaking off plenty of holds. I also remember plenty of drilled pockets, maybe I'm wrong and they only look like drilled pockets, but I'm pretty conservative about what I call drilled. My notes from that climb are: "Awful, one of the worst climbs I have ever been on, dirty, crumbly, and a lot of drilled pockets".
By Mees
From: Iowa
Oct 17, 2012

Sounds like you guys weren't doing the route you thought you were. Good thing he/you are adding routes to the database...
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 17, 2012

At least according to Huey's guidebook this was 100% the route I was on, Also the grade and description match right up. Why the difference in dirtyness and choss, no idea, maybe it's cleaned up in the last 1.5 years. As far as the drilled pockets go, I'm pretty sure they are drilled, but aren't going to drive up to Wyoming any time soon to prove my point.
By Mike Snyder
Administrator
Oct 25, 2012

I climbed PS and DC on the same day and I thought the quality of the two routes were very similar, being that they are 10 feet apart on the same wall. I have been on both routes in the past but was never able to redpoint them. I think DC gets more traffic and is perhaps a bit cleaner, though both routes go through the peanut buttery stuff up high which IS pretty sandy. I was trying to give kudos to two old MWendling routes that are actually pretty good, but may have had some heavy handed tinkering in their development. There is one obvious drilled or enhanced pocket on PS that I did not need or use, I'm not quite sure why it is there. Every other hold on the route seemed to be au natural, except for the occasional edge dulling. Also, nothing broke off on any of the three trips up the thing that it took me to send it, so my opinion was favorable. Its a shame your experience was so different.
By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2014

I just climbed this, and while a little sandy it was not like it was in 2011. It climbs quite well in fact despite the obviously drilled mono. I removed the reference to this climb being a 'dirty POS' in the Dicken's Cider description.
By Joe79
Aug 10, 2014

Although it's been 15 years since I equipped this line, I do not recall drilling any monos. In my memory the only holds I manufactured in Ten Sleep were on He Biggum and I was so ashamed that I stripped the hangers the following season.