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Routes in Stora Vaggen
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Catch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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I Andra Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Prismaster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rapé T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Vad Är Otid? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,200 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Miller on Aug 18, 2010 |
| Admins: | Michael Sullivan, Gunkswest, Ian M |
Description
A great route and one of the four "classic 6-" routes of Bohuslan. With enough gear and slings, this route can be done in a single pitch, however, most people do it as follows:
P1: (5.9+, 15m) Start up flakes/face holds and make a few bouldery moves to the ledge (make sure to protect the follower here). Traverse the ledge to the left, then follow the crack up to a small stance at the base of the thin, steep crack at the base of the main corner and build a belay.
P2: (5.10c, 45m) Climb up the left-slanting corner and over the small roof to the top. This pitch is characterized by tricky and devious crux moves between decent rest stances. Belay from gear at the top or continue up a little more and belay from the tree.
Location
Walk into the crag from the railroad tracks, then find a path through the brush to the base of the route. The route is located just left of center on the wall and has a clearing at the base with several low boulder where you can sit and gear up.
To descend, find the path (up behind the tree from the top) and walk off climbers left (toward the road and railroad tracks).
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