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Printer Boy 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,150
Submitted By: Edward Jenner on Sep 15, 2001
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Pitch 1 (Picture by Annette Elton).

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Description 

From where the trail meets the rock, turn left and walk uphill past most of the routes and to a a left facing corner, just left of the steepest section of rock at the crag. The climb is just left of the left-facing corner. There is a second pitch - 10 bolts, 11b which I have not climbed.

This is a really fun well-bolted climb with a nice finish. Definitely worth doing. I'm not sure about the length, a 60m rope is fine and I'm guessing that a 50m should be OK too, but you might want to tie a knot in the end.

Addendum from Wendie: P2 fun, too (11c) - the crux is getting to the ledge at the anchor. Be careful if you do the 2nd pitch - not very well traveled, so lots of crumbly lichen growing on it. If you choose to go right to get to the ledge for the anchor, BE VERY CAREFUL - the rock is really broken there & much of it will fall onto your belayer or climbers below.

If you string 2 pitches together, you need 2 ropes or 2 rappels.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Printer Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Tom on the 2nd pitch of [Printer] Boy.
Tom on the 2nd pitch of [Printer] Boy.
Scott leading pitch two of "Printer Boy".  Notice that he is stepping on the death block.  Even from the belay, I could see that it is a ticking time bomb that seems to hang directly over the belay.  I was cringing at the thought of it cutting loose!
BETA PHOTO: Scott leading pitch two of "Printer Boy". Notice ...
Comments on Printer Boy Add Comment
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By Wendie
Jul 1, 2002

Super Route! Very fun & properly rated (much easier than the 10a to the left of it)! The 2nd pitch is really fun, too (11c) - the crux is getting to the ledge at the anchor. Be careful if you do the 2nd pitch - not very well traveled, so lots of crumbly lichen growing on it. If you choose to go right to get to the ledge for the anchor, BE VERY CAREFUL - the rock is really broken there & much of it will fall onto your belayer or climbers below. Well worth climbing, though. You can even string the 2 pitches together (20 draws), if you're leading 11s. Forgot to mention that if you string the 2 pitches together, you either need 2 ropes or 2 rappels....

By Rob Dillon
Jul 25, 2004

Um, the 2nd pitch crux is a bolted crack, which gives it up rather more easily than .11c if you know how to put your hands in the crack like they used ta back in the days before people drilled next to hand cracks.

Excellent, fun pitch nonetheless; you may descend with 1 60m rope via the 1st pitch raps if you're careful near the ground.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 11, 2004

Gear Alert

Some of the nuts on the coldshuts are loose (including the left shut at the p1 anchor), so be prepared to hand-tighten them as you go.

By tim naylor
Aug 19, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

One move wonder weaving through choss.

By Hillary P
Aug 15, 2010

The coldshut fell off of the first bolt out of nowhere while my partner was nearing the top. Nut was nowhere to be found.

By Curt Dvonch
Jun 6, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This comment doesn't show up because it was a condition report, but I'll repeat it as Info:

Lynn S
Aug 26, 2010
Pitch one protection bolts and anchor bolts replaced. Hardware courtesy of ASCA.

By Jason Young
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The second pitch of this route has cleaned up a lot (in comparison to the first comment). The only thing I noticed was a very large "death-block" wedged into the crack below the crux. This thing is way too tempting to use as both a hand and foot hold. It shifted and some grit fell out when I grabbed it. I was following this pitch and nobody was below, so I tried to wiggle it out. It was wedged in enough and I didn't want to hang on the rope to try harder, so there it stays, ready to guillotine the rope, belayer, etc. God forbid that this should happen. The route difficulty will not change much if this feature is removed. Although I am not a local, perhaps if I make it up there again I will try to remove it with a hammer and crowbar. The route is just WAY TOO AWESOME not to be cleaned up a bit more and made much more safe.

The "Dazed and Confused" extension is fantastic as well. I don't see any information for it on this site, so I will try to add it in.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 20, 2012

WARNING - Ditto the previous comment about the death block. Why wasn't that thing pitched when the route went in? It is only held in by a baseball-sized rock and is actually fractured in half. I noticed chalk on it when I carefully climbed around it yesterday. This thing needs to go. In the meantime, resist the temptation to even touch it. A crowbar and a ground crew to keep folks away would be needed to fix this mess.