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The dihedral crack next to/underneath Gorilla. Easily toproped after leading the later. Starts off-fingers, then goes from thin to thinner, the crux being some serious laybacking around a slight bulge at about 60 feet. Leading this section would be damn hard, as there are few stances. After this, it widens and joins Gorilla.
A full 30 metres. Several each from tinny to hands.
|By Andrew Wellman|
Mar 11, 2002
I beleive this climb is named Pringles, and felt to me like about 11c/d or so. Somebody told me it was 11+. The first long bit is all thin liebacking, going from fingers to tippy tips, then nothing as you do some weird stemming through the crux bulge. Gorilla crack is easily reachable from here but is off. Using gorilla crack would definately lower the rating to 11-. Interestingly enough, at least 3 good rests are found in the lower lieback section, with the best, a no hands stem, coming in the middle of the crux moves, making this plenty leadable if youre solid at the grade. Regardless, its definately worth TRing, super quality.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Oct 22, 2009
First Ascent Beta from Bjornstad, 1988:
Steve Hong and Leonard Coyne, top rope, 1978
Antoine Savelli and Andy Tibbits, led, 1986
A 5.10b second pitch was added by Wiggins and Cassidy.
|By chuck claude|
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 20, 2011
Gear goes from green C4 (0.75) down to green C3 (0) with a purple C3 then a red C4 (1) with lots in the 0.3 (blue C4) and 0.4 (grey C4)_ sizes if I remember right. The crux is contrived but it is pretty good fun. Easily leadable and fairly safe with a crux that makes you think more then just jam, jam, jam
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
The corner makes a nice variation start to Gorilla Crack but to lead this through the bulge on thin questionable gear when there is a bomber #2 Camalot crack three feet away is ridiculous. I would give the bottom corner 11- or so with gear down to a green Alien.
From: Portland, OR
Apr 12, 2013
I was wondering the same thing...
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 17, 2013
The guy, Jeff, who took a fall on this recently is supposed to recovery fully. I wasn't there, but my friends were some of the first on scene.
"For those who do not already know, I took a ~50ft groundfall last Saturday afternoon while climbing at Supercrack Buttress in Indian Creek, UT when 4 pieces of gear failed (1 ripped, 1 unclipped, 2 ripped and mushroomed). It was incredibly lucky that I only ended up with broken back (T10, L1-4) and a cracked in the right side of my pelvis, but with no displacement, surgery, or hardware necessary. I have a back brace and am already walking limited distances with a walker, and a full recovery is expected over the next several months."