Princess Vicious  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Euan Cameron, 22nd May 2010 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Euan Cameron on May 23, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Climbing through the crux on the first ascent of P...

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Description 

This climb takes a more or less straight line up to the top of the crag. The meat of the climb is found in the first 30 feet, but the climbing above while much easier (5.10), is still enjoyable with good moves in an exposed position.

Start directly below the 1st bolt and the fang of rock that sticks out of the crag about 20 feet up.

Delicately move up to the first bolt (some people may prefer to stick clip this). Continue with some technical moves up to a good hold and the second bolt. Now make the crux sequence to gain the large fang like hold. Once at the hold clip the 3rd bolt and move onto the large sloping shelf.

Continue up the shelf into the square cut corner. Move up the corner then up the steep wall above to gain a rounded sloping ramp. From the ramp climb the overhanging wall above then go straight up to the anchors.

Location 

Left side of the area. The climb starts right of a vertical orange paint mark and right of Keep Hope Alive.

Protection 

8 bolts, double ring and bolt anchors

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BETA PHOTO: The meat of the climb	Moving through the steep up sections on Princess V...	BETA PHOTO: Princess Vicious 5.11b Topo