Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Alison Coin
Page Views: 1,463 total · 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jul 29, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The best 5.9+ in the canyon that isn't a slab named Dragonfly. This climb is awesome! One of the premier intermediate climbs in the galaxy! This limestone gem has a fingerbanging start right off the deck that sends many young Padwans crying home to mama. Stick with your training, because right after cranking through the initial tendon tearing monos, this climb is nothing but jugs, jugs, jugs!

Speaking of jugs, did you know that George Lucas had Carrie Fischer wrap hers up with ace bandages in the very first movie since he didn't want any jiggling happening in the Empire?

This route gets overhung about halfway through and requires navigating through an asteroid field of hidden, but HUGE holds.

The best thing to do is just keep climbing and keep reaching for something! The holds are all there you just gotta get your hands and feet on em' before the pump wears you out like S&M night at the Death Star's disco. I've heard it can get pretty wild down there and everyone is wearing a mask.

Location Suggest change

Two climbs are partnered up on The Warm-Up Wall. The one of the left is the princess. See photo.

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts. Open shut anchors. Just do us all a favor and stick clip the first bolt!

Photos

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