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Prince Charmer 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kelly Baldwin and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 319
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on May 7, 2004
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Mike Amato stemming the initial corner of Prince C...
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Description 

Follow the trail up to the first ledge. Go left and then up to the far left side of cliff. Start in the obvious corner just left of Aerial Boundaries. Stem up the short corner over a small roof. Tend left and up to the first bolt. Make a cool move and clip the second bolt. Reach a ledge and follow the crack up to a steep slab. Clip the third bolt and make a dicey move to gain the slab. Climb on good hold up past two more bolt and reach the anchor on a large ledge. This route is still a little dirty but should clean-up with more ascents. Good route for aspiring 5.9 leader.


Protection 

A small selection of cams to a number two Friend and seven quickdraws with get you to a two-bolt belay. A 60 meter rope barely make it back to ledge. Be careful when lowering.



Photos of Prince Charmer Slideshow Add Photo
Prince Charmer.  Stem up the corner, step left and climb the steep face past two bolts.  The crux is at the third bolt, out of sight from the start.
BETA PHOTO: Prince Charmer. Stem up the corner, step left and...
Funky hold.
Funky hold.
Comments on Prince Charmer Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Some good moves past the first two bolts, but the climb is so dirty with moss, lichen and grunge that it's really not worth doing. The dicey move past the third bolt is much harder than 9+; perhaps a hold broke? Seemed more like 10c to me. If you're in the area, do Aerial Boundaries, Black Rain, and Jungle of Stone; don't bother with Prince Charmer.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I enjoyed this climb, and it climbed better than I expected. Yes, the bottom 1/4 is dirty, but not enough to bother me. I was, not having read the beta, expecting a sport climb having climbed past the first and second bolts when doing the girdle a couple of years ago, but it climbs more like a trad climb. Fun stemming with trad gear to start (you can bypass that out right on the arete). A couple of interesting moves past two bolts over a bulge to access the arete. An easy trad hand crack (bring a red or gold Camalot), and then a puzzling move at another bolt to gain the slab. After a few minutes here, I went straight right then up, and it was easy, 5.9 at the most. Easy slab to the top. It seems like it joins the last couple of bolts of Aerials Boundaries. Is that true? Or did I miss other bolts further left?

By D. Shaw
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13

Worth doing. Two crux moves on it are harder than 5.9, the start/corner is mossy and has lichen, but indeed can be avoided on right. The way I did it, after the crack, join the bolts on the route to the right, but is quite a hard move onto the face. Maybe not if you are very tall.