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The North West Territories
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Primitive Times  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong late 1980s
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: this one climbs the cracks through the moss :)
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Description 

This one is another that would be well worth while if it was clean and solid. However. This is not the case. It is covered in moss and the rock is very fragile in some places.

Interesting enjoyable moves lead up the corner then switch to the arete on the right side. As if this part wasn't dirty enough haha the exit from the corner is so piled with leaves and over grown i was laughing out loud as i grabbed fist fulls of plants while manteling.

After this you might want to set up a belay and then you can rap off or continue up picking your route how you like...Dirty...


Location 

This one climbs the corner just left of the nasty offwidth.


Protection 

Trad gear to top.



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By twellman
Oct 18, 2012

I think this could be a nice climb if it were thoroughly cleaned and retrobolted. The corner certainly is a nice feature, and the reason it's so dirty is because no one climbs it, being a non-splitter trad route at Rumney. Anyone else have an opinion on this?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 18, 2012

Agree, or if there would be a good sport route that could use shared anchors, even better, then people could at least TR it if the gear is bad. Maybe the offwidth could be bolted for the sport way to an anchor.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 18, 2012

so many routes would be cleaner if people ventured beyond the close crags... and brought a little gear...

By Eric Leclerc
Sep 22, 2013

I could name several routes at Rumney that have the same problem. I would also like to do all the routes at Rumney up to my limit and unfortunately have come to the same conclusion.
Since Rumney is such a sport climbing destination where there are very few worthwhile trad routes, I think that retrobolting the neglected routes would be a good option. Here is a list of the ones I've climbed: Tunnel Zone, Misdemeanor, Holderness Finish, The 3 cracks (Ass, Gss and Grass), Black Dog Crack, Brendan's Bitches, The White Buttress, Happy Hooker(nice if it was cleaned), Big Worm, Licken Dike, Bonzai Pipeline,Darth Vadar, Danger, J-Boat, Pee Wee's Big Adventure, Starboard Drift, Ugly Crack...
Those routes just need more traffic. I would be happy to help cleaning some of them only if they get retro otherwise, in just a few years, the vegetation will be back and all the effort will be lost.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 23, 2013

I would agree that some of the routes you mention, like Brendan's Bitches and the first pitch of Lichen Dike, could be better retroed if the first ascentionists wanted it, but completely disagree on others. Peewee's Big Adventure? Come on! That thing eats perfect gear and is a great route for people to learn on. Being my route, I wouldn't care if somebody retro-bolted J Boat, but I wouldn't waste any bolts on it. Ugly Crack should be avoided for plant conservation reasons anyway.

If a route is getting overgrown, but is good, get out and give it a scrub. That needs to be done here in New England. It amazes me how many "climbers" haven't taken a few days out of their career to re-scrub some routes for the community.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 23, 2013

i haven't minded scrubbing a few routes before doing them... I understand your reasoning but we are already spoiled with so many bolts at rumney... I have found more routes that i would like to see bolts removed from than ive found that i want bolts added to...

By Eric Leclerc
Sep 23, 2013

If I didn't live 4 hours away, believe me guys, I would scrub a lot more.
Once I'm done sending everything I have to, I will make many trips to Rumney just to scrub and give back for so many days of pure pleasure.
I've got only 90 routes left to send below the 5.12 level. Many of them are probably dirty. I will do my best to clean the dirty ones...
BTW, I have a lot of respect for you Lee and Mark when I see all the efforts you two put in. Don't want to forget the other guys but you two provide a lot of info.
Thanks!